Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

PastorCharlie wrote:
HERE ARE SOME GOOD INSTALL GUIDES

I do not cut corners when installing the FRP. I use a good coverage of adhesive and press it on firmly and use plywood pads with bracing to hold the FRP to wall until dry. I like a solid feel when pressing the FRP wall and not puffy voids.

I have had good success with mine. I used a plywood backing. What you have on your walls will work fine.

I have had good success with my installs. I use A/C plywood backing. What you have on your walls will work fine. I use a very small bead of clear tub chalking in the corner channels of the trim pieces before slipping them over the edges of the FRP. Makes for a perfect corner seal. I use painter's tape along both sides of all seams when calking wall to tub basin, etc. Remove tape carefully before chalk dries and smooth chalk with wet finger. I dislike a messy chalking job.

I have done jobs where I ran the FRP horizonal on the bottom half of wall and finish the top half with another material to compliment it. Different strokes for different folks.

Thanks for the info. Plenty to read.

Shower construction Here is a cute couple who are renovating a class A
just like yours. This link goes into some detail on the shower
construction.

HERE ARE SOME GOOD INSTALL GUIDES

I do not cut corners when installing the FRP. I use a good coverage of adhesive and press it on firmly and use plywood pads with bracing to hold the FRP to wall until dry. I like a solid feel when pressing the FRP wall and not puffy voids.

I have had good success with mine. I used a plywood backing. What you have on your walls will work fine.

I have had good success with my installs. I use A/C plywood backing. What you have on your walls will work fine. I use a very small bead of clear tub chalking in the corner channels of the trim pieces before slipping them over the edges of the FRP. Makes for a perfect corner seal. I use painter's tape along both sides of all seams when calking wall to tub basin, etc. Remove tape carefully before chalk dries and smooth chalk with wet finger. I dislike a messy chalking job.

I have done jobs where I ran the FRP horizonal on the bottom half of wall and finish the top half with another material to compliment it. Different strokes for different folks.

PastorCharlie wrote:
FRP makes a good wall covering if properly installed.

You had to put that "if properly installed" in there, didn't you?

I guess the next question would be, what is a proper installation?

FRP makes a good wall covering if properly installed.

There we go. Almost as smooth as a baby's .... well, you know.

Time for a mindset change. Back to work.

If you have followed this thread, a while back, I started framing out the bath area, and right in the middle I changed my mind and moved the one bath wall.

Well, I had glued it fast with some construction adhesive, and when I removed it - this was the result. Took the top layer of plywood right off, when I did. Lol.

Doesn't really matter, as it will be covered up anyway. I smoothed it out with my sander and 40 grit disk to remove the last of the adhesive in preparation for a wall covering.

So, we'll be seeing some changes in this area as work progresses.

While I watch the glue dry on the assembly of the kitchen sink, I think I'll turn my attention to the bath area.

I am looking for suggestions on what to cover the walls with that is waterproof.

What do you say?

PastorCharlie wrote:
When I build tanks I use 3" wide fiberglass rolls and do all the corners' walls and bottom. I run 1 1/2" up one side and 1 1/2" up the other side giving a good seal. The cloth can be cut and lay flat on the bottom and the sides over laying the 1 1/2 " of the 3" cloth and no need to work the large sheet around corners and joints.

Thanks for the info.

Bill1374 wrote:
That really looks good!

Thanks.