Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

In order to accomplish this not so spectacular feat ----- I set up my fence for my router.

I put a pencil mark to tell me exactly where the router bit would be.

I also measured left and right of the bit to indicate where I wanted to start and end the cut.

The initial cut - shown here, would be a plunge cut in order to get started.







And the other side would tell me where to stop the cut as well.







Then I would lift the end of the board up, to get away from the router bit.

As long as I was paying attention - and I was - I did not cut too far, and life was good!

After the first cut, I moved the fence over and finished with a second pass in order to get the correct width groove.

You will notice that these grooves do not go all the way to the ends of the drawer fronts.

I also have 6 drawer backs, as well.







I also have the 6 drawer fronts with the grooves cut.

I have 6 more drawers to assemble for this section beneath the counter.

Tonight, I cut the grooves in all of the drawer pieces for the drawer bottoms, which are - (you guessed it - not quite 1/4" in thickness)!

That required 2 passes with a router bit that was less than 1/4" in order to get the required width of the groove.

1/4" bit would make the plywood fit looser than I would like.

So, I now have 12 drawer sides, with the grooves.

sundancer268 wrote:
I replaced the T-10 type bulbs with this flat panel https://m4products.com/alplate-24-5630-nw-natural-white-double-aluminum-plate/ I am very happy with these plates and they come with various adapters to fit the many light sockets. I applied them to my fixtures using RTV Silicone caulk instead of relying on the double sided tape.

Thanks for the link. I just ordered one to compare with what I already have. I see these have 2 pigtails to work with either type of socket.

Supposed to be here next week - maybe. Lol.

I'll give a comparison.

Lt46 wrote:
For what it's worth, I pulled my 1141's out of my ceiling lights and replaced with LED.....not very happy and will probably go back to 1141's. LED's are bright at the fixture but the brightness diminishes not too far from the fixture. For example, when the ceiling light is "on" and I'm at the sink washing dishes, the sink is dark because my body blocks the light and the brightness does not project as far as I like. If that makes any sense.

Thanks for the reply.

Makes perfect sense. Would it make much difference if the light was more directly over the sink?

I replaced the T-10 type bulbs with this flat panel https://m4products.com/alplate-24-5630-nw-natural-white-double-aluminum-plate/ I am very happy with these plates and they come with various adapters to fit the many light sockets. I applied them to my fixtures using RTV Silicone caulk instead of relying on the double sided tape.

For what it's worth, I pulled my 1141's out of my ceiling lights and replaced with LED.....not very happy and will probably go back to 1141's. LED's are bright at the fixture but the brightness diminishes not too far from the fixture. For example, when the ceiling light is "on" and I'm at the sink washing dishes, the sink is dark because my body blocks the light and the brightness does not project as far as I like. If that makes any sense.

joerg68 wrote:
The only recommendation I have: You will not need very bright light in the drawers.
Try some of the lights in your home with a 12 V source.
With all the wires needed for the drawers, there is a risk of something getting caught or tangled up.
Do not forget proper fuses. You don't want an electric short to burn up the wiring (and start a fire...).

Thanks for the post.

I did a poor job of writing that question. My fault.

I am not planning on putting lights in the drawers. I was actually talking about lighting on the ceiling.

There, that should be a little more clear.

The only recommendation I have: You will not need very bright light in the drawers.
Try some of the lights in your home with a 12 V source.
With all the wires needed for the drawers, there is a risk of something getting caught or tangled up.
Do not forget proper fuses. You don't want an electric short to burn up the wiring (and start a fire...).