Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Next, here is a piece of fiberglass cloth, covered with Bondo fiberglass resin.

I cut this to size to match the earlier Epoxy and Por 15 test over fiberglass cloth.

The black arrow points to the Por 15 coated cloth.

The red arrow points to the Epoxy coated cloth.

The blue arrow points the Fiberglass resin coated cloth.

Baby sitting duty yesterday.

Rained this morning, so I worked on a computer.

Researched and ordered a computer to build early this afternoon.

After that, I mowed the yard, (mostly).

As soon as I was done, it rained. So much for working on the roof of the moho.

However, here's a couple of updates.

First, going on 2 years for testing Por 15 clear on a piece of copper tubing. It still has not started to tarnish.

I think at this point, it's not going to, thanks to the ability of Por 15 to completely seal the item from outside moisture.

LouLawrence wrote:
So there is going to be a 6" roof overhang around 3 sides of the coach? I sure don't want you to start 10 more pages of testing posts but aren't you concerned how 80-1000 MPH winds (combined driving + wind speed) might effect that? No reason to mention the amount of damage that is likely from tree branches and the like!

Only 10 pages of testing????

Actually, the sides only have about 1.5" of overhang, which is also about 6-8 inches lower than the roof itself.







I wouldn't expect much of a problem driving down the road, plus if I add an awning on the passenger side, that will stick out farther than the side of the roof.

The rear overhang, will stick out past the rear wall of the coach about like the rear bumper, but most branches will be at the upper level.

Should be just a matter of being careful with an outside spotter to keep things from getting destroyed. (famous last words).

Bruce Brown wrote:
No need to go overboard there. Run a little 120 grit paper down the cut, put a piece of guerilla tape around the edge then glue the TPO down. Works great, and yes, I have done it myself so I know it works. My RV tech buddy, who literally grew up in the business gave me the tip.

The fly in the ointment here is that I am using .060 thickness which is reinforced and does not bend well around corners.

I can check, but I may still need to round off the corners. When I did the sides, I rounded off the top edge, and it seemed to help it make the bend.

So there is going to be a 6" roof overhang around 3 sides of the coach? I sure don't want you to start 10 more pages of testing posts but aren't you concerned how 80-100 MPH winds (combined driving + wind speed) might effect that? No reason to mention the amount of damage that is likely from tree branches and the like!

No need to go overboard there. Run a little 120 grit paper down the cut, put a piece of guerilla tape around the edge then glue the TPO down. Works great, and yes, I have done it myself so I know it works. My RV tech buddy, who literally grew up in the business gave me the tip.

After a false start, things went well. The rear overhang now extends the same distance the whole way across the back.







Next, I'll need to round off the top side, and start gluing the TPO into place.

Next came the juggling act of trying to hold the block against the back wall, while holding the router against the block, all while cutting the plywood.

The instant I finished cutting the block to length, I said to myself, that's wrong.

I need 6 1/2" from the back wall to the router bit, not 6 1/2" to the end of the block, plus the the router base. Duh... Lol.

So, I measured from the router bit, and put my 6 1/2" mark on the block, and re-cut the block, just a little shorter.

First step is to cut a block so I can use that to hold the router base against, so I can keep the end of the roof parallel with the back wall.