Battery isolator switch?

stepdad wrote:
Thanks folks for your replies, I appreciate it. I have a 50 amp hookup in my driveway. My RV batteries are new and my engine batteries were deemed acceptable. I went on a thirty minute drive and it has fired up every time during the day.

I have a battery charger with a trickle feature so I guess I should start using that.

~Thanks, John

Then you have a parasitic draw on the start batteries mine sits for weeks at a time and starts You can check this with a multi meter to see if there is a draw.

My magnum 3000 although turned off its still draws about 2-3 amps just sitting there as its wired direct to batterys.Your new 3000 must be wired after the disconnect switch to draw zero power. for some reason the tiffin factory choose to wire mine direct.But because I have a plug in at house I just leave it charging all the time

usersmanual wrote:

Tom/Barb wrote:

Jim@HiTek wrote:
It doesn't 'override' them, it places them in parallel so you have the house batteries assisting the starting battery.

The root of your problem is probably because your RV doesn't have an aux charging system for your chassis battery while you're parked and plugged into shore power. BTW, the optional roof mounted solar panel is basically just a salesman's scam. What you should do is just go measure across the chassis batts in the condition it was when you had the problem and if the voltage is not 13.8 or so, you need an aux charger like a Trik-L-Start.

If you've parked the RV without shore power, just disconnect the grounds from both sets of batts and they'll hold a charge for months. If you leave them connected, they'll slowly discharge...the chassis batts in days, the house batts in a couple weeks.

You better get your RV fixed. our coach sat 3.5 months with out power applied, it started right up. and the house batteries still had 12.9 volts, 1 hour down the road after engine started to charge them, they were at 13.4v.

my ISL 425 starting batterys seem to stay up ok but my house batterys wont because the 3000 watt inverter/converter is wired direct and it draws a couple three amps when live, the house batterys will draw down substantially in 2 weeks.you must not have a inverter in your system or a very small one
I have two house battery disconnects but it does not shut off the power to the inverter

We have a new Magnum 3000 and simply turn it off. and turn the battery disconnect switch to "OFF" chassis battery, will be running a couple LEDs and the keep alive codes in the ECM thats all.

Thanks folks for your replies, I appreciate it. I have a 50 amp hookup in my driveway. My RV batteries are new and my engine batteries were deemed acceptable. I went on a thirty minute drive and it has fired up every time during the day.

I have a battery charger with a trickle feature so I guess I should start using that.

~Thanks, John

usersmanual wrote:

K Charles wrote:
We to can leave the "old fixer upper" we got for a month or so and it still starts right up. We turn off the house battery with the switch and let the "salesman's scam" on the roof keep the chassis battery charged. It is 11 years old so maybe the old ones worked better then the new ones do.

what does this statement mean?

let the "salesman's scam" on the roof keep the chassis battery charged.

If you keep the chassis battery charged as u say then of course it will start right up
can you explain in layman terms what your trying to say

Jim@hitec said "BTW, the optional roof mounted solar panel is basically just a salesman's scam." and that is all I use.
I thought everyone read every post, I should use quote more often

J-Rooster wrote:
John, your observation on your batteries is right in the ballpark! I just went thru what your going thru and was told I need to check my batteries more often and start up and run the engine more often. Good Luck

would it not be far simpler to either install a battery disconnect switch or simply remove the battery cable when stored?
this is assuming your not hooked up to power while stored

John, your observation on your batteries is right in the ballpark! I just went thru what your going thru and was told I need to check my batteries more often and start up and run the engine more often. Good Luck

K Charles wrote:
We to can leave the "old fixer upper" we got for a month or so and it still starts right up. We turn off the house battery with the switch and let the "salesman's scam" on the roof keep the chassis battery charged. It is 11 years old so maybe the old ones worked better then the new ones do.

what does this statement mean?

let the "salesman's scam" on the roof keep the chassis battery charged.

If you keep the chassis battery charged as u say then of course it will start right up
can you explain in layman terms what your trying to say

Tom/Barb wrote:

Jim@HiTek wrote:
It doesn't 'override' them, it places them in parallel so you have the house batteries assisting the starting battery.

The root of your problem is probably because your RV doesn't have an aux charging system for your chassis battery while you're parked and plugged into shore power. BTW, the optional roof mounted solar panel is basically just a salesman's scam. What you should do is just go measure across the chassis batts in the condition it was when you had the problem and if the voltage is not 13.8 or so, you need an aux charger like a Trik-L-Start.

If you've parked the RV without shore power, just disconnect the grounds from both sets of batts and they'll hold a charge for months. If you leave them connected, they'll slowly discharge...the chassis batts in days, the house batts in a couple weeks.

You better get your RV fixed. our coach sat 3.5 months with out power applied, it started right up. and the house batteries still had 12.9 volts, 1 hour down the road after engine started to charge them, they were at 13.4v.

my ISL 425 starting batterys seem to stay up ok but my house batterys wont because the 3000 watt inverter/converter is wired direct and it draws a couple three amps when live, the house batterys will draw down substantially in 2 weeks.you must not have a inverter in your system or a very small one
I have two house battery disconnects but it does not shut off the power to the inverter

We to can leave the "old fixer upper" we got for a month or so and it still starts right up. We turn off the house battery with the switch and let the "salesman's scam" on the roof keep the chassis battery charged. It is 11 years old so maybe the old ones worked better then the new ones do.