burlmart wrote:
if your rig uses an intellitec BIRD
not plugged into your shore AC...with new house batt installed and maybe using thick gloves, put house disconnect toggle to STORE and go disconnect and reconnect pos batt cable checking for sparks. if sparks, batt is not totally disconnected.
When I installed the new battery I checked for a spark as I connected the cables, but I connected the negative cable last. Maybe I should have done the positive cable last, but I've just formed the habit of disconnecting negative first and connecting negative last. It helps avoid the fireworks.
At any rate, I installed the new battery at 8:00 am Tuesday and checked it. I left the switch in "Store" and checked it again Wednesday morning at 9:00 am. It had lost less than 1/10 of a volt. I think that shows that there's no appreciable draw while it's just sitting in "Store."
burlmart wrote:
if no sparks, then set house disconnect to USE, then turn off every DC device you know about (don't miss stuff liks TV batwing amplifier), and repeat sparks check. if sparks, there is still a current draw somewhere.
Unfortunately, there are two radios in the thing that can't be powered down completely. When turned off the displays still sit there displaying a clock on one and a menu on the other. I guess I could figure out what fuse operates them.
burlmart wrote:
regardless of any sparks, still in USE, plug in 30 amp shore and read house and engine batt voltages. your converter should be putting out over 13.2V measured at house batt, and if BIRD is working, its solenoid should go on and you should read same over 13.2V at engine batt (engine is off). if this happens, your AC power converter and BIRD & its solenoid are good as house is charging all things it should in USE and on shore AC
I have checked the house battery in "Use" and on shore power, and it does give me 13.2 volts. I'll check the truck next time I'm out there.
burlmart wrote:
unplug shore AC and keep house batt in USE. check engine batt voltage - really best if 12.6 or more. turn on engine and alternator should send hi 13V or even over 14V to both batts (bidirectional charging). if alternator is still only 12.5V, it may have a loose fanbelt or some inner elec malfunction.
I have checked the house with truck running and not on shore power, and it only showed about 12.5 volts. I had my wife rev the engine to about 2500 rpm, and it didn't improve. I have not checked the truck battery. I'll get that as well.
But according to my book, if the charge rate doesn't stay at 13.2 volts, the house battery stops charging until it gets to 13.2 volts for ten seconds. Since this thing seems to go down while driving and the battery in "Use", I think this may be the culprit.
burlmart wrote:
hope this helps in some way.
Absolutely, and many thanks for the effort.
I charged the battery to 13.2 volts on shore power today and turned the battery back to "Store." We're leaving tomorrow for about a three-hour trip and will have the battery in "Use" while driving to keep the rear camera and fridge going. I plan to check the house battery on arrival and see what we've lost. If we lose anything, I'll have some ammo for the dealer.