bleeding air breaks
I have a 2001 bounder with 51000 miles. Should i have the break lines bled? And where do I find where the lines bleed from? thanks. Just trying to learn.
Forum Discussion
Dutchstar02 wrote:
"If they feel mushy, take a (/16 wrench and a balpeen hammer and get under there and adjust them."
I don't know what jurisdiction your air brake endorsement is certified in but in Ontario, Canada you cannot adjust your air brakes unless you are certified to do so. This means either being an air brake mechanic or MTO certified air brake adjuster. It not only is very dangerous to do so it's also illegal.
Can you provide the statute from any jurisdiction that says it is illegal to adjust your own non-commercial air brake slack adjusters?
I once crawled under a semi and adjusted the slack adjusters at a Caloifornia Port Of Entry Weigh Station after it failed the safety inspection. None of the Officers present said a word about "You can't do that!" After the adjustment, it passed the inspection and we were allowed to get on down the road.
At the time, I was a licensed A&P mechanic, but in a previous job I had encountered the same type of slack adjusters.
Actually, the recommended procedure given by Dutchstar is pretty much correct. I used a 9/16 deep socket, and if the lock sleeve is stuck (very common), a shot of PB blaster penetrating oil and a few careful taps with a ball peen hammer on the socket frees it up nicely. The inspectors want the air can rod to move about 3/4 to 1 inch. Backing the adjuster off 1/2 to 3/4 turn from snug will give you that.
