Blind Spot Mirror

My Itasca also has the Velvac mirrors with the little stick on convex mirrors on the bottom corner. When my coach was about 8 months old, I was driving out of the Fl. Keys alone. As I was pulling up to a light at Florida City, I looked to my passenger side mirror and discovered that my little convex mirror wasn't there. It was immediately apparent why they are referred to as a blind spot mirror. :E It was an interesting ride home. A few days after getting home I went out and bought a replacement mirror. Went through the process of properly cleaning the mirror before reinstalling a replacement. The next trip out, I was pulling out of a rest area, with my wife along with me this time, and I asked her to adjust the whole mirror assembly. As she was moving it, the new mirror started to fall off, which she somehow caught. When I got to a campground, I found some double sided tape at the campground store, which I used on the replacement mirror, and it has held up for over a year now. I keep meaning to buy another mirror, which I think I will go out and do now. :B

*** Just bought another mirror for the next time I lose one. ;)

With that 0.67 inside diameter, you'd need to find tubing with its pilot hole size around 0.67. For 1/2" NPT (taper thread) pipe, it looks up as 23/32 (0.718) and for 1/2" NPS (straight thread like a bolt) pipe, it's 47/64 (0.734). Where ya gonna get That Drill, That Tap, and when you do, you risk cracking that pot metal piece that already broke. You'd also have to enlarge the hole in that spring retainer (the gold piece), although a washer would probably do at that point.
Why not just get a pipe nipple or lamp tubing and EPOXY it inside the 0.67" diameter and get on with assembly?
I looked up "lamp pipe" and the 1/4 IP (Iron Pipe) is 1/2" outside diameter. To me, that's sloppy in the 0.67 diameter it epoxies into.
Remember, I'm suggesting PIPE only because some of us have mirrors with wiring going through the Arm and into the Head. If your mirror isn't power adjust, heated, or lighted, get a hunka 5/8" all thread plus a nut and rock on. I probably have a piece of that I'd mail to you.
If you're wondering, I have nothing better to do at the moment than develop this repair... Latest thought:
1. 3/8" Pipe Nipple (or 5/8" threaded rod) and Nut. Nipple short enough to fit down into the 0.67" hole and hold the compressed Spring without bottoming in that hole.
2. Leave Nut with a couple threads for adjustment.
3. Assemble and apply EPOXY (like JBWeld) to Pipe Nipple and 0.67 hole.
4. Compress with Vise or Clamp till Assembled Mirror can swing properly, holding on its detents under Spring Pressure.
5. Allow epoxy to cure. Remove Clamp.
6. Make final adjustment with Nut on remaining Few Treads.
7. Drip RED Loctite onto Nut Threads.
8. Trim protruding Nipple as needed.

Ya know that might work if you could tap the inside of the shaft and get a nipple or rod to fit then putting the spring in and then a nut to compress it. That spring is small but very stiff and to compress it may be a chore and it has to be there so the arm will stay in position.

I still have all the parts I may mess with it.

The only thing I would be worried about is if that spring popped loose during assembly, it was put on with a lot of force, when it broke I found the keeper and spring about 18 feet away from the RV.:E

I didn't mount the bracket on the mirror frame itself, but below it on the arm. On my Velvac there's a small black plastic cover that can be removed to gain a bit of access. The hole was drilled so that I could get the small bolt inside with a serrated lock-washer and then attach the bracket underneath with a locking nut. Putting the nut on the outside would allow easier tightening in the future if needed, and applying a bit of Loctite on the threads as well for additional security. The positioning of the new mirror doesn't interfere at all with the Velvac.

IAMICHABOD wrote:
I don't think that the 715372 will fit on the bottom because of the way the arm is, the bottom of the mirror is over the arm leaving no room for it.

I looked at the suggestion from the last thread but it wont work,the spring is too strong to compress.

I see what you mean about the auxiliary mirror not fitting on the bottom.

My repair plan includes making the repair piece long enough that its threads are used to compress the spring. Then the repair piece is cut off. It's a one-shot repair, but so's the original mirror.

I suggested a pipe nipple instead of threaded rod so the wiring for power an/or heated mirrors could pass through it.

Thinking further, lamps and ceiling fixtures use threaded tubing. It's "all threaded" and not tapered. If the diameter worked out, the lamp tubing wouldn't require threading.

I originally picked up 2 of those round mirrors at a Flying J, and they came with L- brackets that work fine. They've been on since 2001 with no problems. There are 2 or 3 different diameter sizes to fit your personal preferences. The brackets need some stainless steel machine nuts and bolts to attach to the bottom of the Velvac mirrors, which means drilling s few small holes. A big improvement over the small corner convex mirrors.

I don't think that the 715372 will fit on the bottom because of the way the arm is, the bottom of the mirror is over the arm leaving no room for it.

I looked at the suggestion from the last thread but it wont work,the spring is too strong to compress.

I believe I've figured a way to repair the arm pivot on the Velvac RV mirrors. Some time let's dialog on that.

OOPS, just saw it in the mirror thread called "Replace."

Does 715372 also fit on the bottom?

When I had to Replace my mirror I wanted the mirror with the larger Convex mirror. They only come as a whole assembly and I only needed the arm.

For my application it only came with the smaller mirror like the one on Snowman's

Randy at Ryder and I could only come up with a way to get this was to order the whole thing then swap out the mirror heads, a very expensive way to go just for the larger mirror.

The smaller one is adequate but as a retired trucker I always want to see as much as I can in my mirrors.


As I said in another post the one that was mentioned on a rental truck has been dis continued but I did find This while looking thru their catalog of mirrors.But I Don't like the way it is on top of mirror.

On Edit the PDF that Bobbo put up in the clicky above is no longer there.

I wanted a bigger picture than those stick-on bubbles offer



These were plastic-backed cheapies from Advance Auto Parts, but I was able to go home and make little brackets from DIY aluminum. The mirror end attaches to where the flat mirror head pivots up an down.

YES! Mount the additional mirror BELOW the original. You want it for an in-close view so high doesn't help. More importantly, it keeps your mirrors below eye level. You can't see them in the pic, but our old Holiday had "west coast" style mirror frames (from top of window frame, down to door below the frame, with a diagonal brace) and two 6" mirror on them like a UPS truck. Had to move around to see cross traffic sometimes.