Blowing out water lines

wa8yxm wrote:
Why remove the water filter.. Well, for one it restircts flow so you get a better blow without it

And for another, You should be removing it, obtaining a new cartridge and replacing it come next season. They are not good year to year, IN fact a full season is pushing it on most of them.

I get it……I picked up some new ones in Nashville in mid-october and put them in thinking we would be gone before we got a freeze so I wouldn't be winterizing the coach at all this year but alas……we can't leave till Christmas so I did end up taking the filters out and blowing out the lines, putting anti freeze in the traps and tanks but I did not run it thru the lines since I am keeping the aqua hot set at 50 degrees until we leave. Since they are only a month old, I put them right back in after blow out.

Why remove the water filter.. Well, for one it restircts flow so you get a better blow without it

And for another, You should be removing it, obtaining a new cartridge and replacing it come next season. They are not good year to year, IN fact a full season is pushing it on most of them.

Turn off the pump.
Drain the Fresh, Gray and Black Tanks.
Drain and Bypass the Water Heater.
Blow out with air.
Turn on the Pump.
Pump in the Pink.
Turn off the Pump.
Blow out the Pink.
Reset the Water Heater Bypass to normal.

Come springtime, Fill the water tank, turn on the pump and go:)

Amazes me how a thread can start and go viral to five pages of responses in one day! I just want to add a bit I picked up. Also blow out the pressurized black tank spray cleaner if you have one. Mine is near the black tank drain and is a normal pex fitting which, if it splits could cause a problem that is not easy to get to or fix. HTH

Probably a dumb question, but when blowing the lines out with air why do you need to remove the water filters? Of course if you are pumping in anti-freeze it makes sense but just air? Is it because the air will not empty the chamber of water that the filter is in? I always assumed once you charge the lines with air it will empty ANY water that is in the system.

found an interesting discussion of the types of air compressors.
Oil-Free and Oil-Type Compressors

To better understand oil-free compressors, it is helpful to explain oil-type compressors first. Oil type compressors use lubricating oil for three main purposes: lubrication of moving parts in the compression mechanism, cooling of the mechanism and the exiting air and entraining contaminants that enter the compression process through the air inlet. Oil-free compressors do not directly involve oil in the compression mechanism for any of the above three purposes. They may have oil involved in other parts of the compressed air process such as motors and gearboxes, however.

The Key Issue

The controversy centers on whether the compressed air user can tolerate the inadvertent trace amounts of residual oil in the air from oil-types--either as mist or vapor--in their process. Some tooling and motors count on it, and some processes requiring absolutely pure air such as biological, pharmaceutical and food cannot tolerate any oil whatsoever. This is not to speak of the environment inside the plant where the compressed air is consumed and vented to ambient.

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Read more: http://www.ehow.com/about_6147902_oil-oil-lube-air-compressor.html#ixzz2lJLXynw3
bumpy

The fresh water tank needs to be emptied of course. The small amount of water left in it after that is spread out over a wide area and won't harm your tank even if it freezes. So, no, it doesn't need to be winterized.

marbilupton wrote:
What about the fresh water tank? Should it be winterized? I have not done this in the past, but are expecting record colds.

just drain it. run the pump dry if you are blowing out the lines instead of using AF. and IIRC the winterizing kit was about $12.97 which would be an easy one time install instead of taking the system apart every fall.
bumpy

What about the fresh water tank? Should it be winterized? I have not done this in the past, but are expecting record colds.

I disconnect the input hose at the pump and attach a 2 foot long hose (previously made up) to the input and stick the other end of the hose into a gallon jug of anti-freeze. Then I turn on each faucet and shower for a few seconds. That puts a little anti-freeze in each p trap and in the lines. Of course, you need to turn off the input and output valves to the water heater first to use the bypass. Works for me.
Ed