Usually (but not Always so don't count on it...) if the problem is a Hose or Caliper, one side will act up first. We had a case of that. Oddly, we'd driven 50 highway miles at 55MPH. Stopped to check in at the state park. At 30MPH a mile into the park, the wheel started to jerk and it felt like a flat tire. Got out and one brake was hot like a BBQ grill. Limped to the campsite and bought parts for both sides. Replaced only the side that was acting up and did the other side after we got home. Replaced Caliper (with Rebuilt), Hose, and Pads. The Caliper Mounting Bracket Bolts call for a 21MM socket which I didn't have onboard, lots of torque (breaker bar I didn't have onboard) and locked with rust besides. I tore it down again, had rotors resurfaced and packed the bearings. Can't remove disks to pack bearings with only Caliper removed - Bracket has to be off too. Very satisfied with the results.
BUT!!! Another case. On a car we had, RUST developed in the Master Cylinder and the tiny Pressure Relief Port for the Front Brakes plugged up. This meant the fluid pressure couldn't release when the pedal was released. Pads stayed in close contact, caliper heated, fluid expanded, brakes applied. THIS kind of problem affected BOTH front wheels at once and felt like ordinary braking.
It sounds like the Brake Fluid may never have been Changed/Flushed. If it's picked up a lot of moisture, it'll boil and brake fluid vapor won't brake.
Seems to me like time for a complete inspection and probably a brake job. Flush at a minimum.
If this chassis is E450, the mounting hardware (Slides) for the Rear Disk Brakes is more prone to sticking than the Fronts. In our case, previous owners had replaced the rear calipers and hoses. Fronts were my turn.