Brightening the exterior finish

Did you consider the Zep/RMP Application Process?

Sounds like the finish is oxidized. Try some rubbing compound followed by Carnuba wax and polish. I do mine once a year.

Oasisbob wrote:
Sounds like the finish is oxidized. Try some rubbing compound followed by Carnuba wax and polish. I do mine once a year.

X2
This is what I did too on my first used C, and it shined right up. I use Maquires or Mother's with rubbing compound in them so no 2 applications just one. Both work really good.

This is just with one coat of cleaning wax. Should have seen it the second time I did it!
Top is before wax bottom after one coat.


I full time and I try and wax the MH and Toad at least once a month.

Just a note about being tempted to use one of those special applications. I shied away from the red pro frenzy and there are now reports from owners where it is peeling etc. ZAnd then you have a whole nuther problem to deal with. Just saying.

The whiteners in the Filon sheeting fade from UV exposure, the yellowing is not something that is going to wash off.

It is like an oxidized paint, you have to get back to color by abrading the surface down to wher it is not yet UV damaged. Abrasive polishing will do that. There used to be chemical agents to do the job for pre-clearcoat automotive finishes, but they don't really work for the plastic on the side of our RVs.

Covering it with wax, or a clear plastic floor finish, won't brighten the color underneath. It won't slow down the color change either, unless what you use is a UV shield (there are a couple out there) and some of the protective finishing materials meant for indoor use might also yellow with age.

You have to decide whether the work of rubbing it all down past the dingy part is worth it for you, and you'll probably want to do it without damage to the applied graphics (which have almost certainly faded) because the color under the graphics is going to be different, having been protected from exposure to light.

As others have said if the surface is highly oxidized you have to remove several thousandths of gel coat to get the shine back. If hand rubbing will not work I would try the Barkeepers Friend first on a small section and then a hand rubbing compound to see if that brings back the shine. This worked for me for several years. If this does not bring back the shine the other options would be to use a buffing wheel with rubbing compound first to remove the oxidation then use a wax. This is a lot of work and if you have good shoulders is probably the way to go. The last option is to use the Zeps floor wax(if you have bad shoulders). I have used both methods but prefer the Zeps but I am old with two repaired rotator cuffs. I have not had to wax MH in the last 3 years and it still shines.

I had great luck with Red Max Pro and later Zep Wet Look by the same company. It CAN check or show defects if applied over remover and not on a pristine clean surface. The process is well documented and lasts much longer than a Maquires wax job--not forever though. It is important to throughly clean with Bar Keeper's friend--amazing how it takes off the oxidation--especially if you can find the white 3m pads that are finer than the green, then wash with a strong cleaner (TSP is recommended) and rinse well. The floor wax needs about 4 coats to get the shine. It can be renewed with another coat in a year or so, or removed and the process done again, maybe every 2 or 3 years. I had a bit of checking on the overhead after using the remover--but nothing terrible. The stuff didn't save my poor decals though. They have continued to crack and peel and I will have to tackle them someday. I recently read that cement sealer works in the same way too.

I have the same problem as most with peeling decals after 10 years. I was looking into painting on the decals, but found Mobilty RV still had the almost full set. The retail price was $800, but they are on sale 1/2 off. I already had some purchased back in 2011. So I got what I needed for $250. Spent the last few days removing the Red Max Pro, peeping with Bar keepers friend and TSP. Found only straight ammonia worked after 3 tries with a rough sponge pad worked at removing the RMP. There floor stripper seemed to have a problem on the vertical walls. Ended up streaking and I kept it wet hru the whole process. I will reapply the RMP as it is the only thing that keeps the shine on an old MH.

I thought the remover worked pretty well, and knew about ammonia too from spray cleaning my windows. Thanks for the tip on new decals. I checked out the Mobility RV site but didn't see any mention of the sale. I sure don't want to spend much on decals though. I think I'd rather just have a plain finish. The swirls don't do much for me esthetically. :? Won't get to it this year anyway...but always have to have a plan, right? Post some pics of your job--will be an inspiration.