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Svswellbound's avatar
Svswellbound
Explorer
Jul 19, 2013

Buying a 1990 Falcon on a Chevy chassis, newbie questions

It seems to be in good shape but we shall see, 1990 Falcon chevy chassis, with 108k miles, 350 engine, not sure if these are efi or carb, what are problem areas to look for? Leaking cabover windows,plumbing, owner states he got it as part of an estate auction, so I can't rely on him for any real in depth info. Any help/ insight would be greatly appreciated, I am slated to go tomorrow morning, wish I had a bit more time but the deal presented itself and I don't want to say I wish I would have.
Cheers,
Jason
  • Let's face it. You are going to have problems. But, it is usually less expensive to deal with the problems than to buy a van with no problems. Basically, any used unit will need some kind of fixing. You can get it fixed just about anywhere and there is all kinds of help for the RV side on YiuTube and places like that.

    If the bones are good, change the oil, do a flush and filter on the transmission. Also, get the cooling system flushed and get new belts ans hoses while you are at it. In other words, do not skimp if you think it is a keeper. Also, get new tires and an alignment. Get an "E" load rating, which some tire guys call a 10-ply.

    RVs always have something wrong just like a house. Make sure the chassis mechanics are in good order and stay that way. Then, you can always get somewhere to fix the rest.

    Finally, check with an RV place for the sealant to use on leaks. There are several kinds. While Camping World is great, you sometimes get better advice at smaller places. Good luck!
  • I jumped on a similar unit last May, 94 Falcon on Dodge B350 w/360 engine, and 87K miles. I should have checked things as suggested. Looked nice and ran good, very smooth shifting.

    So far, new tires, coach battery, propane valve and hose, new front brakes (after right lockup last week), and new shocks all around; total over $2K. FYI, Camping World may be the best, but they are also very expensive. Still need to fix generator ($1100 per CW for carb and voltage regulator), replace converter/charger (can do myself for less than $150 or $386 at CW). The roof AC, hot water, stove, and fridge work great (haven't tried fridge on propane and haven't tried furnace). One other problem is truck AC vents close on a climb; vacuum leak or probably a box in the dash.

    At least the truck seems to be fine. I've read that these trucks are good for 250K or so with good maintenance. Moral of the story, buyer beware, and check everything.

    donrebyct
  • Svswellbound wrote:
    It seems to be in good shape but we shall see, 1990 Falcon chevy chassis, with 108k miles, 350 engine, not sure if these are efi or carb, what are problem areas to look for? Leaking cabover windows,plumbing, owner states he got it as part of an estate auction, so I can't rely on him for any real in depth info. Any help/ insight would be greatly appreciated, I am slated to go tomorrow morning, wish I had a bit more time but the deal presented itself and I don't want to say I wish I would have.
    Cheers,
    Jason


    Read the FAQ's at the top of the Class B home page.
  • A 1990 should be EFI. The GM 1 ton van platform is close to bullet-proof, very simple and very proven. Quite low tech.

    My 1990 Pleasure-Way is based on the same platform (146" wheelbase).

    GM 350 small block with FI, 3 speed Turbo 400 and 12-Bolt differential. Hard to fault for its reliability and ease of servicing. According to my GM service manual, some models may have been built with the 4 speed auto transmission. I'd prefer the 3 speed over the 4 speed.
  • Take it to your trusted mechanic before you buy. If the seller isn't amenable to this, run away. If s/he is okay with that, pay for the mechanic to go over everything, and find out how much the repairs (there will be repairs) will be. (No doubt, hoses, belts, etc will need replacing, see where the rust is and get an estimate (or your mechanic's best guestimate of what a body shop would charge.)

    Go over everything on the RV side too (unless you have an rv dealer who will do this for you): first thing, turn on the genny and let it run while your going over everything else (this way, you'll have time to listen to it); run water in the sinks and flush the toilet and have someone else outside lying on the ground (next to, not under) the rv to see what, if anything, is leaking as you do the water test. Also run a cup of water on suspicious areas to check for leaks.

    Open the awning. Run the AC (on genny power), fridge too. pull up the carpets (if you can) and see what's underneath. Get your face down into the cushions: a cleaning can get rid of topsoil, but mold all through the cushions means replacement.

    That's for a start. But don't rush just because the price is so tempting. Time now is money saved on what might be a huge headache.