Hello. We're thinking about buying a Class C, something in the 22-24 foot range. Right now we have a 2011 Ameri-lite Ultra 23BW. Looking for some buying advice. Is a Chevy or Ford better? Not sure on Class C manufacturer to buy. Any brand better then others. We are probably looking at a budget of $30K. Is getting something decent in this price range? What type of mileage should we stick under? Thanks for any info and advice

I own a Ford RV and a Chevy SUV so I have no preference there. At 30K you're looking at used. I would just shop around until you see a floor plan/price/size that fits your requirements. I bought a used Cruise America rental 3 years ago and have thoroughly enjoyed it. And no major repairs yet. Good luck in your search.

I wouldn't worry too much about mileage unless it's very high. Most motorhomes do not accumulate too many miles, and often low milage implies that it has sat unused and perhaps unmaintained for a long period (which is bad).Most class C's that you'll be looking at will be built on a Ford chassis. There's nothing wrong with it; it's a solid and reliable design. The Chevy's reportedly get slightly less terrible gas milage and have better legroom in the cab area and may be slightly better ergonomically in general, but both are good.Do be aware that any correspondence of manufacturer's model numbers to actual lengths is rather arbitrary. Also bear in mind that a 23' overall class C is going to be somewhat smaller inside than a 23' travel trailer. The cab and front end are a good six feet long.Be on the lookout for water damage, particularly in the cabover section, which is frequently prone to leaks. Also pay attention to the weight and cargo carrying capacities, as some class C's are quite constrained in that area. (Some old ones even came from the factory heavier than the stated GVWR...though that shouldn't be true for any that are of at all recent manufacture.) Finally, take into account the age of the tires; a new set of six will generally run around $1000 or so, roughly speaking. Motorhome tires usually need to be replaced because of age rather than treadwear.You should be able to find something that's in generally good shape and without serious defects for $30K.

Standard advice is to get a pro truck mechanic to inspect the truck parts and give written estimates for any repairs needed, parts and labor. RV tires become unsafe sitting parked for 5 years. They should be replaced if sidewalls have cracks deeper than 1/16 inch regardless of appearance and tread depth. Brake fluid should be changed every couple of years and brake system serviced as needed. Engine cooling system including all belts and hoses should be serviced as needed. Buy a popular brand of motorhome where maker is still in business.Have an RV service inspect for water damage and function of 12 volt DC and 110 volt AC electrical system including, batteries and converter charger RV generator, roof AC, furnace, fridge, water heater. Inspect awning fabric and mechanical parts. Whatever you buy, try it out at a local RV park or in your driveway before embarking on a real trip.

We own one like This One For Sale On Ebay For $27,000 but ours SEEN HERE does not have the optional slide out. We really like ours, very happy we did not get the slide out. We love having the dinette.Our rig is one of many brands that falls within these guidelines for RV quality.--------------------------------------------------------------New, used, or well used, when shopping for any conventional class-C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. This post outlines construction methods which are most affordable and methods that cost more, but are built to hold up much better to the elements and the punishment of road motion.Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is.When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with what I call "Eye Candy" or "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water infiltration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets inside, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Also consider that mold & mildew can grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a reliably well sealed motor home.#1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.75 to 2 times the cost of Second Best)NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes have a limited selection of sizes.#2 SECOND BESTCommon, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focusI own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA.Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water damage. Here are the good things you want to look for.a) Structural Seams Away From CornersWhen a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans countless times, representing a series of extended continuous earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lower stressed areas.b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front CapA huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven. It is common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. HERE is a more recent example, one of many I have read. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design HERE eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with most seam work.There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. Born Free offers a seamless bucket design as seen in This Model. The Itasca Navion Here is another fine example. Some manufactures as of late offer a partial bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. Some manufacture models like the Minnie Winnie Premier and the Nexus Phantom utilize a compromising partial bucket design, making it a better choice compared to a fully seamed cab-over bed.If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, having that large extra cab-over bed will be extremely useful.c) A Crowned RoofRain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons.d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof SheathingA single sheet of fiberglass as shown HERE that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down to the wall. The overlapping of fiberglass to the wall provides a good water seal and the fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.e) A Five Sided Rear Wall CapA five sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress as seen HERE. The rear wall resembles a shallow cooking pan standing on it's side. Like the example, some rear wall sections are constructed with an integrated spare tire compartment and rear storage compartment. Not only are they convenience features, but that rear wall/cap offers a solid double-wall for exceptional strength which is more resistant to flexing the adjoining seam work.Bigger Will Be WeakerThe size & floor plan you select "must" fit your needs before this consideration. The bigger the house, the weaker the structure will be. Consider two cardboard boxes made from the same corrugated material. The smaller box will be less prone to twisting. It will also be more rigid.Potentially Troublesome ConstructionEntry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.There are also rare exception like the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like BestAbout The ChassisThe most popular is the Ford E-Series with the V10 engine. The Sprinter diesel is a popular alternative to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM chassis is not popular, but is a very good choice for the right application. Any of those three brands since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Sprinter is the least powered chassis. People who tow with a Sprinter, take it slower.If considering a recent “small” class B+/C motor home, here is a comparison between the two main contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine. Advantages Of The Sprinter With Diesel Engine- Offers a 35% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically.- More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room.- Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride.- A grander view out the windshield- Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine- Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $13,000 MSRP cheaper- The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque- The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.- The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.- The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.- In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel- The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America- The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.- This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions or you are dangerously low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Via, View and View Profile. Others like Phoenix USA build their model 2350 and 2400 on both the Sprinter and Ford E350. They will even build it on the heaviest duty E450 upon request for a nominal fee. People who request an E450 for a small motor home, tow heavier things like for example, a multi-horse trailer. You can even special order a E350 & E450 4x4.There is so much cool stuff offered in recent years, and even more anticipated with the upcoming Ford T-Series chassis. The general public awaits the RV industry to utilize a made-for-RV-application model when or if it becomes available. The chassis is similar to a Sprinter in capability and fuel economy, but hopeful to be much more affordable and easier to get serviced.The Chevy 3500/4500 ChassisI do not understand why this chassis is not more popular. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches to store your rig, the Chevy adds an additional 6" to the front bumper compared to the Ford. I learned that researching rigs that could fit in my 25'-0" deep garage. By default, the Ford gave me 6" more to work with. If you examine my motor home in my garage HERE, you will see our Ford E350 is quite tight already. That could be some of the reason why the Chevy offers a little more interior driver/passenger space.The Dodge Promaster 3500 Cut-Away ChassisTHIS front wheel drive chassis is a brand new entry in the RV industry. I am concerned over it's lack of load capability as reflected with single free-wheeling rear wheels. I have been reading posts written by new Promaster RV owners stating they are over-weight with just two people, some personal effects and food. They say they can't carry water and never a 3rd person. I would not be comfortable with such a limited load range.Engine Power Ratings of Ford, Sprinter, & ChevyFord - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ftSprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ftChevy - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ftDodge Promaster - 3.6L-V6 (GVW only 9,300 pounds)

Thank you everyone. Going to start some research. I think we might be able to go higher on the price. Around $40K. I do know an RV mechanic, which is good. Is thee a more popular length for a Class C?

Buying a Class C | Good Sam Community

16 Replies

tenbear
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
Campincarters wrote:
We own a 25 ft unit. Very happy with the size for me and my wife. Easy to drive and park and plenty of storage space. I bought this size because of the fact that I want to be able to drive a lot and see things. The bed can be difficult to make being that it is on the side not an island bed but everything else works well for us in our layout. We have used ours for week getaways and simple overnite excursions to several tailgates. Perfect size for just us 2 and happy with the Chevy chassis but I do have issues when filling the tank each time. Whatever you do make plans and enjoy it.Next weekend we are going on a overnite in New Hampshire and Vermont to see foliage. 600 miles we plan in 2 days and we will find a campground along the way. That is the beauty of a RV.

Right now it's still a little early for foliage. Go to northern Vermont for the best color. There are some colorful patches but still a lot of green.
Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Sep 30, 2015
pnichols wrote:
DrewE wrote:
Most class C's that you'll be looking at will be built on a Ford chassis. There's nothing wrong with it; it's a solid and reliable design.

I used to think I agreed with the above comment about the Ford chassis.

HOWEVER, this past August really shook me up: The 2005 E450 V10 Ford chassis under our 2005 24 foot Itasca Class C surprised me, our regular mechanic, and a highly recommended transmission shop owner by blowing it's computer controlled, 5-6 speed, TorqShift, 5R110 transmission with only about 51K miles on the rig. Installed replacement cost for a heavy duty optioned remanufactured (new ones are no longer available) 5R110 transmission was well over 5K.

So ..... be aware. It's a mystery as why this happened. I now drive up grades a bit slower and invoke the TOW/HAUL mode very carefully to prevent those sudden automatic gear-downs when on down-grades ... just in case those habits had anything to do with it. I had assumed that an under-loaded E450 chassis supporting only a 24 foot Class C - with which I rarely tow only a small aluminimum boat - would be bullet-proof, including it's 5R110 transmission! That may .... or may not .... be true. :h

P.S. Do Chevy 3500/4500 van transmissions ever fail mysteriously?

Phil, sorry to hear about your trans can you enlighten us as to the specific circumstances of the failure? I know you like to load it up pretty good with all of the rock hounding you do which of course includes a lot of off roading. Were you running conventional or pure synthetic trans fluid? What exactly "blew"? Was it electronics/computer controls or gears in pieces? :E

I have gone to running in Tow Haul about 90% of the time as we are now running heavier than we used to and towing the 960# trailer/bike. I have yet to experience the so called "sudden automatic gear downs" that you and others have described. The downshifts we get when in TH are always smooth and quite predictable, generally a light tap on the brakes will drop it down one more gear but never more than that.

I don't remember if you have a Scan Gauge - if so what sort of temps were you typically seeing (from the trans)? Did you get any engine codes prior to the failure (if so which ones)? Good luck with the news trans but if not here perhaps a detailed thread on your experience could/would help the rest of us with what for me has been the perfect trans.

:C
Campincarters
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
We own a 25 ft unit. Very happy with the size for me and my wife. Easy to drive and park and plenty of storage space. I bought this size because of the fact that I want to be able to drive a lot and see things. The bed can be difficult to make being that it is on the side not an island bed but everything else works well for us in our layout. We have used ours for week getaways and simple overnite excursions to several tailgates. Perfect size for just us 2 and happy with the Chevy chassis but I do have issues when filling the tank each time. Whatever you do make plans and enjoy it.Next weekend we are going on a overnite in New Hampshire and Vermont to see foliage. 600 miles we plan in 2 days and we will find a campground along the way. That is the beauty of a RV.
burlmart
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
surgtech56 wrote:
Hello. We're thinking about buying a Class C, something in the 22-24 foot range. Right now we have a 2011 Ameri-lite Ultra 23BW. Looking for some buying advice.
Is a Chevy or Ford better? Not sure on Class C manufacturer to buy. Any brand better then others. We are probably looking at a budget of $30K. Is getting something decent in this price range? What type of mileage should we stick under? Thanks for any info and advice

with enough research on pricing, say from RV Direct, and good bargaining at dealership, i think some here have gotten brand new 24' rear corner bed Cs in low $40k range. so if you go up in your budget as you mentioned on another post, you might get new. look at sunseekers,

like this
burlmart
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
pnichols wrote:
I used to think I agreed with the above comment about the Ford chassis.

HOWEVER, this past August really shook me up: The 2005 E450 V10 Ford chassis under our 2005 24 foot Itasca Class C surprised me, our regular mechanic, and a highly recommended transmission shop owner by blowing it's computer controlled, 5-6 speed, TorqShift, 5R110 transmission with only about 51K miles on the rig. Installed replacement cost for a heavy duty optioned remanufactured (new ones are no longer available) 5R110 transmission was well over 5K.

So ..... be aware. It's a mystery as why this happened. I now drive up grades a bit slower and invoke the TOW/HAUL mode very carefully to prevent those sudden automatic gear-downs when on down-grades ... just in case those habits had anything to do with it. I had assumed that an under-loaded E450 chassis supporting only a 24 foot Class C - with which I rarely tow only a small aluminimum boat - would be bullet-proof, including it's 5R110 transmission! That may .... or may not .... be true. :h

P.S. Do Chevy 3500/4500 van transmissions ever fail mysteriously?

sorry to hear of your trouble, phil. did this occur on your long cross country trip?

i do not see many tranny posts. i think it was garyhaupt(sp) whose new sprinter C blew a tranny in FL - 3000 mi from his pacific NW home. this was just a few yrs back.
tenbear
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
Lots off good advice here.

Don't confuse the model number with the length. Mine is a 28A which many would think is 28' long. WRONG. It seems the coach is about 28' long, but the overall length is about 31'. Take your tape measure with you.

If you are thinking of using the over cab bed, be sure to try getting in and out of it, then try imagining what it would be like in the dark with 2 of you in the bed. That's what made us get a rear queen bed. Maybe you are more agile than DW and I.

Mine is a Chevy. It gets about 9 mpg towing a car. Most Fords reportedly get about 8 mpg.
pnichols
Explorer II
Sep 30, 2015
DrewE wrote:
Most class C's that you'll be looking at will be built on a Ford chassis. There's nothing wrong with it; it's a solid and reliable design.

I used to think I agreed with the above comment about the Ford chassis.

HOWEVER, this past August really shook me up: The 2005 E450 V10 Ford chassis under our 2005 24 foot Itasca Class C surprised me, our regular mechanic, and a highly recommended transmission shop owner by blowing it's computer controlled, 5-6 speed, TorqShift, 5R110 transmission with only about 51K miles on the rig. Installed replacement cost for a heavy duty optioned remanufactured (new ones are no longer available) 5R110 transmission was well over 5K.

So ..... be aware. It's a mystery as why this happened. I now drive up grades a bit slower and invoke the TOW/HAUL mode very carefully to prevent those sudden automatic gear-downs when on down-grades ... just in case those habits had anything to do with it. I had assumed that an under-loaded E450 chassis supporting only a 24 foot Class C - with which I rarely tow only a small aluminimum boat - would be bullet-proof, including it's 5R110 transmission! That may .... or may not .... be true. :h

P.S. Do Chevy 3500/4500 van transmissions ever fail mysteriously?
Bordercollie
Explorer
Sep 30, 2015
With a rig that is 26-27 feet long you can have a rear bedroom with
RV Queen size bed and won't have problems getting into and out of the overhead bed that some with arthritis have. Sleeping on the convertible dinette cushions or jackknife sofa is not pleasing for many. Many RV'ers just love their 22-24 foot rigs, many trade up to a longer rig to get a rear bedroom setup. Short rigs also have little cabinet or other storage space. Your type of RV usage somewhat determines the length and floorplan/features you will want/need.
ron_dittmer
Explorer III
Sep 30, 2015
surgtech56 wrote:
I think we might be able to go higher on the price. Around $40K. I do know an RV mechanic, which is good. Is there a more popular length for a Class C?
There are two schools of thought on the length. If your plans are to visit the national parks & monuments, especially out west, shorter rigs will fit into many more camp sites than longer ones. I personally recommend not exceeding 26 feet for those destinations. At the same time, if you have a large family, you'll need more room to accommodate everyone. But buying a 30-32 foot rig for two adults, then tour Yellowstone in it for example, that wouldn't be a good scenario. But if you insist on that length, plan to tow a vehicle so you can get around after you have secured your campsite. There are a lot of long class-Cs out there of which private camp grounds and RV parks accommodate extremely well. Many state parks too. It's all about flexibility.

That is my opinion, not the opinion of the majority here. But my wife and I spend 100% of our RV trips in national parks, national monuments, national forests, bureau of land management, and some state parks too. We never stay in RV parks and other private camping. I should also mention that when in-route, our stopovers are primarily at Walmarts but a few rest areas too. Our rig is 24 feet long and we still tow our 4x4 for maximum flexibility.

$40,000 will get you a very nice, well built used rig.
IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Sep 30, 2015
AJR wrote:
Don’t forget to look at rental units. If there is a “next time” I know I will after reading here what other folks have experienced with them.

This is always a good option when looking for a well maintained RV. There are many happy campers that have gone that route.

The clicky in my signature will give you more information on Buying An Ex Rental.