No doubt some of you reading have followed this saga for some time. I thought I had it fixed; then a small leak. I retested the suspected area with my "rainmaker" and seeing the leak, patched some more. After yesterdays downpour, the leak is still there.This is a photo of the underside of the cabover on the drivers side and the screws that I have removed.Several of the screws came out very easy, which tells me the wood is soft. When replacing the screws what is the best filler to use in the holes. What do the screws actually hold together? Is is just the trim? Can I go with a larger screw? Galvanized?To those of you who have dealt with this before, ALL INPUT as to evaluating the situation and properly addressing the fix is certainly appreciated.From what I've seen, removing the trim and placing new screws is fairly easy and I should probably replace the screws under the trim as it runs up the front of the cabover.THANKS.

You have done some great detective work and localized most of your issues. The water running down over the window might be helped with a bead of clear caulk over the top and down the sides 1/2 way. In regards to the roof, anytime I have seen screws in that condition, it is caused by the rotten wood they are screwed into. I'd venture to guess that a good portion of the frame member running down the side of the camper is shot and needs to be replaced. Even sealing your leaks at this point will keep the moisture in that wood and it will continue to rot. I would pull the roof/wall apart, replace the wood, probably a 2x2, button it up, and finish by caulking and putting Eternabond tape along the entire edge. To be on the safe side, I'd put it around all the edges, seams, etc.As far as the vents, I'd vote for caps. Theoretically any rain that falls in them make it's way to the tanks.Good luck!Todd

Had the same thing happen.I am convinced that the water was running down the vinyl trim and filling up the inside of the trim and entering through the screw holes as the trim filled up, it was filling faster than it was draining.After removing the rotted lumber and rebuilding the loft using all pvc lumber, glued and screwed together to make sure there was nothing left to rot I used a plastic hurricane panel in place of plywood to cover the whole thing.Last of all I sealed all the new screws and cut drain holes in the new vinyl trim so water could drain.So far no more leaks and if it does there is nothing there to rot, I would recommend anyone who has a class c with a overhead loft cut drain holes in the bottom of the trim.Good luckJoe

images...your response about water filling up in the trim is interesting...because last evening when I began popping the trim I was sure a lot of water fell from the trim...

The trim is most likely the culprit. I would remove the trim. There might even be some delamination on the edges of the filon. If so, open it up a little so you can dry it out. It takes a long time to dry. If damage to the wood structure is minor treat with Gitrot. Also fill the screw holes with Gitrot. If delaminated, reglue the filon with G/flex by West Systems. Reinstall the trim using butyl tape and fill the edges with Proflex. Fill each screw hole with Proflex before replacing screws. I bought 100 stainless steel screws for $15 online.

I had a very similar leak. I re-sealed the large seam across the top etc and it still leaked some. Next I re-sealed the marker lights and pulled the trim and along the roof and the trim that runs down the front. I sealed each screw head with a dab of caulk. Took some cleaning behind the trim as it was pretty dirty in there. Was careful to keep the caulk low so the trim would fit back (my trim is fairly flat vice some of the 'domed' stuff you see). For the most part I think it was a leaking marker light.

Cabover Leak...Help Appreciated! | Good Sam Community

14 Replies

TonyMin
Explorer
Jun 07, 2012
The trim is most likely the culprit. I would remove the trim. There might even be some delamination on the edges of the filon. If so, open it up a little so you can dry it out. It takes a long time to dry. If damage to the wood structure is minor treat with Gitrot. Also fill the screw holes with Gitrot. If delaminated, reglue the filon with G/flex by West Systems. Reinstall the trim using butyl tape and fill the edges with Proflex. Fill each screw hole with Proflex before replacing screws. I bought 100 stainless steel screws for $15 online.
mikeleblanc413
Explorer
Jun 07, 2012
images...your response about water filling up in the trim is interesting...because last evening when I began popping the trim I was sure a lot of water fell from the trim...
images
Explorer
Jun 07, 2012
Had the same thing happen.
I am convinced that the water was running down the vinyl trim and filling up the inside of the trim and entering through the screw holes as the trim filled up, it was filling faster than it was draining.
After removing the rotted lumber and rebuilding the loft using all pvc lumber, glued and screwed together to make sure there was nothing left to rot I used a plastic hurricane panel in place of plywood to cover the whole thing.
Last of all I sealed all the new screws and cut drain holes in the new vinyl trim so water could drain.
So far no more leaks and if it does there is nothing there to rot, I would recommend anyone who has a class c with a overhead loft cut drain holes in the bottom of the trim.
Good luck
Joe
dupreet
Explorer
Jun 07, 2012
You have done some great detective work and localized most of your issues. The water running down over the window might be helped with a bead of clear caulk over the top and down the sides 1/2 way. In regards to the roof, anytime I have seen screws in that condition, it is caused by the rotten wood they are screwed into. I'd venture to guess that a good portion of the frame member running down the side of the camper is shot and needs to be replaced. Even sealing your leaks at this point will keep the moisture in that wood and it will continue to rot. I would pull the roof/wall apart, replace the wood, probably a 2x2, button it up, and finish by caulking and putting Eternabond tape along the entire edge. To be on the safe side, I'd put it around all the edges, seams, etc.

As far as the vents, I'd vote for caps. Theoretically any rain that falls in them make it's way to the tanks.

Good luck!

Todd

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Cabover Leak...Help Appreciated!

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