Vac-Bonding might be an issue. I asked 2 dealers about ripping it apart from the inside and they told me no.
That's why I was under the impression that you can't take things apart from the inside or its at least its a very difficult job.
That's as far as I researched it.
All my rv plumbing runs within heated interior walls. I do not have any water lines on outside walls where they tend to freeze, that includes my floor which is a 3-4" raised floor that's heated. I also have a dedicated 2" heat duct that keeps my water pump warm as well as my exterior side compartment.
Here's what I did :
I just finished adding 1" Dow board on all my windows. After trimming each piece to custom fit the inside framework of each window , I then cut a square in each panel so I can see out.
I covered the hole by covering it with heat shrink clear plastic from a storm window kit.
I held the Dow board in place by using clear tape where the Dow board meets the metal frame. This also put the final touch of sealing the drafty cold window, making it draft free.
Our queen bed rides up against the window, no condensation plus its totally warm now reflecting heat back into the cabin.
There is an aftermarket rv window replacement company that will custom build you a dual pane window or make you a custom framed storm window to secure inside the frame. I did what I did as a test and inexpensive to see if it really makes a difference and it does. Down the road, I might go for the custom windows, I will see, depends on the cost.
Roof Vents:
I had a marine canvas guy make me some 14x14 insulated vinyl panels with 4 stainless snaps to attach them to the inside of my roof vents and shower skylight.
At night I covered my entrance door with a HD drape that I roll up and store in place above the door. I use a round draft snake to insulate the bottom of the door.
This the 3rd rv I have used this system. All this combined made a huge difference in keeping the interior warm and cut down my propane use.
I just tested it in zero F temps and the interior is 75F, just what I set the thermostat at .
Once the furnace heated the rv up, it allowed me to use an electric heater (1500 watts) to maintain or greatly offset the furnace kicking on.
One of our members advised me to use a drape or HD clear plastic curtain to seal off the front cab area. I also did that because there is no sense for me to heat that area when parked, I don't have swivel seats as part of my interior.
Good luck and enjoy the cold weather use. We use our rv all year long and have found that we are not alone.
