Charging Strategy, 1994 RoadTrek
Hi all, I've been diving back into how to upgrade my battery system in my class B and was hoping someone here could sanity check me. I have a small 100AH 12V coach battery and I'm upgrading to a pai...
Forum Discussion
Yes that sounds reasonable to me.
So I take it you will just use the new batteries with an inverter for the time being? Otherwise if you wanted to power your coach 12v system with the new batteries you will have to disconnect the existing wiring to the old coach battery and connect to the new ones, but that is likely not possible or practical till it is fully rewired/ re routed.
My camper van is a 1990 b350 dodge but not a road trek. Iv'e replaced my stock alternator with a new 120A mopar one. Its likely your replacement one is similar. This is kinda extra info, but dodge alternators are regulated by the computer which doesn't seem to run them very hard. Ultimately the computer likes to run them at 13.8 most of the time. I doubt an old 75 amp model vs a new 120 amp model would change that, but of course, the one with higher amp output would put out more current without the voltage sagging with a similar load.
My van It originally had a simple solenoid isolator, and yours likely does too.
I replaced the solenoid with a new one that is similar. They eventually rust out /burn out and fail (no longer plunge to connect/disconnect)
Luckily a Simple RV solenoid is only about 25 USD. Compare this with a BIRD which is like 200 USD. Either one will work reliably.
So I take it you will just use the new batteries with an inverter for the time being? Otherwise if you wanted to power your coach 12v system with the new batteries you will have to disconnect the existing wiring to the old coach battery and connect to the new ones, but that is likely not possible or practical till it is fully rewired/ re routed.
My camper van is a 1990 b350 dodge but not a road trek. Iv'e replaced my stock alternator with a new 120A mopar one. Its likely your replacement one is similar. This is kinda extra info, but dodge alternators are regulated by the computer which doesn't seem to run them very hard. Ultimately the computer likes to run them at 13.8 most of the time. I doubt an old 75 amp model vs a new 120 amp model would change that, but of course, the one with higher amp output would put out more current without the voltage sagging with a similar load.
My van It originally had a simple solenoid isolator, and yours likely does too.
I replaced the solenoid with a new one that is similar. They eventually rust out /burn out and fail (no longer plunge to connect/disconnect)
Luckily a Simple RV solenoid is only about 25 USD. Compare this with a BIRD which is like 200 USD. Either one will work reliably.
