Class C boondocking
Hi, I have been reading this forum quite a while now for good info but now I have a specific question. I have enjoyed my slide in camper for twenty years now and enjoyed where I can camp with it on my...
Forum Discussion
For a 2WD Class C that you want to take off-pavement, look for/do things like this:
- Get as short a one as you can possible camp with ... 24 feet max.
- Get as short a wheelbase chassis as possible ... 158 inches max between the front and rear axles.
- Whatever you get, put taller size (bigger diameter) tires on it. Every added inch of tire diameter gives you one-half inch more ground clearance at every point on the chassis. This is a better way to get ground clearance than a lift, because the tire diameter method continues to keep the overall center of gravity of the vehicle as low a possible while at the same time providing higher clearance for all chassis components.
- Look for a coach outer wall profile behind each rear wheel dual set that sweeps up straight starting immediately at the wheels. Some coach walls go straight back a little ways behind the rear wheels before they angle up to the back wall of the coach ... this is not the best profile to minimize off-pavement damage to coach walls.
- Look for sewer/tank components that are mounted up high at frame level and, if possible ... enclosed within a metal cabinet structure.
- Look for a built-in generator installation such that the bottom of the generator cannot be seen hanging down below the coach wall. The generator should be mounted right up at frame height ... not hanging lower.
- If possible in a short length, get the Chevy 4500 or Ford E450 chassis under the motorhome so you can crawl along slowly better with more torque on tap and less transmission slippage due to the better pulling rear differential gear ratio used in these two heavier duty chassis.
- Get as narrow a coach body exterior width as possible .... 96 inches max.
- Get as low a roof height as possible .... commensurate with the minimum stand-up height you need inside the the coach.
- Do not get a model with slides. Slides add too much additional weight and weeken the overall coach wall structure for off-pavement use.
- Get a limited slip or posi-traction rear differential if possible.
- Use the angular-traverse method to the maximum extent possible whenever crossing depressions or going over humps when off-pavement.
A short and narrow Class C on a heavy duty chassis with it's heavy items (propane tank, fresh/grey/black water tanks, built-in generator, coach batteries) mounted down low approximately at frame height like they are ... has the potential for better overall rough road stability than slide-in truck campers where all or most of the weight associated with camping is above base frame height.
Keep us posted with what you come with!
- Get as short a one as you can possible camp with ... 24 feet max.
- Get as short a wheelbase chassis as possible ... 158 inches max between the front and rear axles.
- Whatever you get, put taller size (bigger diameter) tires on it. Every added inch of tire diameter gives you one-half inch more ground clearance at every point on the chassis. This is a better way to get ground clearance than a lift, because the tire diameter method continues to keep the overall center of gravity of the vehicle as low a possible while at the same time providing higher clearance for all chassis components.
- Look for a coach outer wall profile behind each rear wheel dual set that sweeps up straight starting immediately at the wheels. Some coach walls go straight back a little ways behind the rear wheels before they angle up to the back wall of the coach ... this is not the best profile to minimize off-pavement damage to coach walls.
- Look for sewer/tank components that are mounted up high at frame level and, if possible ... enclosed within a metal cabinet structure.
- Look for a built-in generator installation such that the bottom of the generator cannot be seen hanging down below the coach wall. The generator should be mounted right up at frame height ... not hanging lower.
- If possible in a short length, get the Chevy 4500 or Ford E450 chassis under the motorhome so you can crawl along slowly better with more torque on tap and less transmission slippage due to the better pulling rear differential gear ratio used in these two heavier duty chassis.
- Get as narrow a coach body exterior width as possible .... 96 inches max.
- Get as low a roof height as possible .... commensurate with the minimum stand-up height you need inside the the coach.
- Do not get a model with slides. Slides add too much additional weight and weeken the overall coach wall structure for off-pavement use.
- Get a limited slip or posi-traction rear differential if possible.
- Use the angular-traverse method to the maximum extent possible whenever crossing depressions or going over humps when off-pavement.
A short and narrow Class C on a heavy duty chassis with it's heavy items (propane tank, fresh/grey/black water tanks, built-in generator, coach batteries) mounted down low approximately at frame height like they are ... has the potential for better overall rough road stability than slide-in truck campers where all or most of the weight associated with camping is above base frame height.
Keep us posted with what you come with!
