Class C that's easy to fix?
I am DIY person and looking for a class C that's easy to fix, by that I mean it has a truck-like, easily accessible engine bay. Think F250 engine bay and you got it. I had an older F250HD and everythi...
Forum Discussion
Well Et,
This has been a really good thread and a lot of knowledgeable people contributed. What does bother me about a lot about your plan is RV elephant called structural rot. If you buy anything that has a hard corner roof, watch out.....
Few class Cs live long enough to need serious engine work. So that is just not an issue.
Most RVs are a type of construction often referred to as "stick and staple". That does not sound very substantial does it?? Well it isn't. Want an example? Go to Camper Woman and read. She bought a TT that looked real good. It turns out that it only needs everything above the frame....
Most RVs that are this construction have this problem. They were built to last 10~15 years. If you manage to acquire something this age, be ready for an interesting time. At about this age, all the rubber parts are shot. So, if the house is good, no big problem. Just plan to replace all the hoses and belts. This means brake and fuel as well as all the coolant hoses. While you are at this, flush the coolant and the brake fluid. This will kind of happen automatically when you take the hoses out. The coolants anti-corrosives will be depleted, and the brake fluid will probably have moisture in it. Cost?? If you do it yourself? All told less than one thousand dollars - typically (Most in my circle have done this at least once.)
Regular maintenance is essential for reliability.
Our coach is a real odd-man-out. It is 48yo and now on the second overhaul of the engine at about 170k. It should not have needed it, but it broke a piston. It still needs very regular maintenance. Grease is cheaper than parts.....
Matt
This has been a really good thread and a lot of knowledgeable people contributed. What does bother me about a lot about your plan is RV elephant called structural rot. If you buy anything that has a hard corner roof, watch out.....
Few class Cs live long enough to need serious engine work. So that is just not an issue.
Most RVs are a type of construction often referred to as "stick and staple". That does not sound very substantial does it?? Well it isn't. Want an example? Go to Camper Woman and read. She bought a TT that looked real good. It turns out that it only needs everything above the frame....
Most RVs that are this construction have this problem. They were built to last 10~15 years. If you manage to acquire something this age, be ready for an interesting time. At about this age, all the rubber parts are shot. So, if the house is good, no big problem. Just plan to replace all the hoses and belts. This means brake and fuel as well as all the coolant hoses. While you are at this, flush the coolant and the brake fluid. This will kind of happen automatically when you take the hoses out. The coolants anti-corrosives will be depleted, and the brake fluid will probably have moisture in it. Cost?? If you do it yourself? All told less than one thousand dollars - typically (Most in my circle have done this at least once.)
Regular maintenance is essential for reliability.
Our coach is a real odd-man-out. It is 48yo and now on the second overhaul of the engine at about 170k. It should not have needed it, but it broke a piston. It still needs very regular maintenance. Grease is cheaper than parts.....
Matt
