Class c vs. class a

pnichols wrote:
FWIW, we also sometimes leave the dog in the motorhome with the generator powering the roof air when shopping, eating, or rockhouding out in desert heat.

do you ever use idling engine w/ dash AC?

FWIW, we also sometimes leave the dog in the motorhome with the generator powering the roof air when shopping, eating, or rockhouding out in desert heat.

However we have discovered one trick for ultimate safety from internal fumes when doing this, just in case: We close up the entire RV except for one roof vent with a multi-speed, reversible fan in it. We set the fan speed on LOW, and set it's air direction to AIR IN. This creates and maintains a small, positive air pressure inside the RV so no fumes can enter anywhere. The very small amount of air entering the powered roof vent to maintain the pressure is from way up high, where there won't be any generator fumes in the outside air.

P.S. #1 We also use this trick to keep dust out of the RV when traveling on dusty roads.

P.S. #2 We also have used this trick when touring the Southern U.S. in August so that we could leave the coach air conditioner running off the generator in order to sleep in EXTREME heat and humidity when drycamping. Having the generator run all night while sleeping also meant that we had enough "generator white noise" so that we didn't have to try and sleep with that incessant and loud-right-through-the-RV's-walls cicada sound drumming in our ears all night!

thank you, phil. that is really good to know. we are hot and humid half the year, but dash cools whole rig easily.

we use shore power at state parks where we go fall/winter/spring. we use genset maybe an hour a month in summer for AC for dogs while in a restaurant or store + 20-40 min/mo all year to keep it limber. if we have 200 hours on our genset over the last 10 years, i'd bet 80% of that was solely to keep it limber.

i sure can see that we could do w/o a genset w/ a ford if it's legal to leave it running w/ dogs. (i gather the chevy is not as good idling?)

burlmart wrote:
i did not know a ford V10 could easily idle for maybe 2 hours. i thought it was harmful.

what is its fuel consumption running cab AC compared to tha onan 4000's 1/2 gal/hr running rooftop?

a small B+/C will cool w/ just dash AC

Here's what I think the situation is:

- Many public service fleet vehicles have the Ford V10 engine in them and I believe that these vehicles are sometimes left idling for hours at incident scenes. If so, that idling must not be doing too much damage to these vehicles.

- From measurements made by others who have scan gauges in their motorhomes, it looks like the V10 may consume about 0.7 gallons of gas per hour when idling.

- By studying the specifications, I estimate that our RV's Onan 4000 watt built-in generator is probably consuming around 0.4 gallons of gas per hour when powering the air conditioner.

Our dash air conditioner will keep our small 24 foot Class cool, but I've only had our RV in temperatures of around 105 degrees .... I don't know about hotter temperatures than that.

Also, our V10 idles very, very quietly ... so when camping in very noise sensitive areas we can just idle the engine to charge the batteries or use the dash air conditioner to cool the RV.

i did not know a ford V10 could easily idle for maybe 2 hours. i thought it was harmful.

what is its fuel consumption running cab AC compared to tha onan 4000's 1/2 gal/hr running rooftop?

a small B+/C will cool w/ just dash AC

What tpi said!!

ron.dittmer's great post should be a sticky!

The only significant criteria for running gear/power train are wheelbase relative to total length, and the quality of the extension of the chassis.

Most manufacturers make the "house" part in 3 qualities: weekend or short camping trip use; extended use; and full time use. Prices vary accordingly. A very few only make high end: coach house, born free, lazy daze. No matter which quality/use level you choose, if used that way the house will wear out long before the vehicle part.

Beware of the "short" class A's. Most are on van running gear, not F53. Vehicle maintainability was not a consideration. I seriously question long term viabliity. However, some shorter true class A's are now available (My first class A was a large - at the time - 23 foot.) I've seen some good under 30 foot choices. Some drivers, or their co-pilot are uncomfortable sitting "out in the open" and in front of the front wheels. For those a class C would be a better choice.

The cockpit of a class C is more survivable than most Class A's in the event of a serious crash. However, Motor Home drivers are probably the most conservative and safe drivers and serious crashes are really rare. If you tangle with a garbage, dump, or semi truck A or C makes little difference.

The most important choice is the compatibility of the floor plan with your use.

Federal Mandate, airbags..

Nuff said

Also crumple zoned in Class C too

Nuff said

Not sure about you, but I want to prolong my life and minimize damage to my body and family with all the illegal texting//cellphone opposite direction collisions


Nuff said

Hedgehog wrote:
I was just wondering what the advantages are of a class c versus a small class a? I have owned a travel trailer, fifthwheel and currently a 40' diesel pusher that I am selling. I have always been under the impression that class c's are more prone to water leaks in the front. I am tossing between going back to a fifthwheel or a smaller drive able and was just wondering what the advantages are. Thank you in advanced.

fewer steps in class c. easier to repair. most class a have multiple slides more prone to leak or malfunction.

tpi wrote:
I agree with the advantages of the E series for appropriately sized class C motorhomes. Serviceablity, safety, etc.

But overall for me, class C (on typical chassis) RVs are best for units less than 29 ft. Once you hit 30 ft, the C and the A start to overlap in size and many Cs are very limited in weight carrying ability.

I know this grossly oversimplifies things but 27 or 28 ft and under the C is at it's prime. If it is 30 ft and over start seriously considering a class A.

I'd say the first thing to consider is how big do you want?

I agree.

tpi wrote:
I agree with the advantages of the E series for appropriately sized class C motorhomes. Serviceablity, safety, etc.

But overall for me, class C RVs are best for units less than 29 ft. Once you hit 30 ft, the C and the A start to overlap in size and many Cs are very limited in weight carrying ability.

I know this grossly oversimplifies things but 27 or 28 ft and under the C is at it's prime. If it is 30 ft and over start seriously considering a class A.

I'd say the first thing to consider is how big do you want?

Very well put!