Converting a class C from 30 amp to 50 amp service

Its the nature of the beast and we ALL deal with the same problem. You get used to it and it will become second nature to you not to put plug in 2 items on at the same time. Same will happen if your DW uses a dryer, toaster etc. And appliance especially the ac draw more when they come.

snip it:
It’s important to note that in an RV you can’t run several appliances at once or you’ll blow your breaker. Here’s the skinny. Your RV has either 30 amp or 50 amp capability. Amperage is the amount of power available to use. Each appliance pulls a specific number of amps. Exceed 30 or 50 amps (depending on your rig’s system) and poof – the power overloads and the breaker trips. Here’s a handy list of some of the typical appliances and the approximate amps required to operate them:

Microwave 12.8 amps (depends on what type 500 or 1200)
Air Conditioner - 15,000 BTU 12.5 amps
Electric Water Heater – 6 gallon 12.5 amps
Toaster 10 amps
Hair Dryer 10 amps
Electric Frying Pan 10 amps
Electric Coffee Pot 10 amps
TV 2 amps
Crock Pot 1.5 amps
Heating Pad .5 amps

Its the nature of the beast and we ALL deal with the same problem. You get used to it and it will become second nature to you not to put plug in 2 items on at the same time. Same will happen if your DW uses a dryer, toaster etc. And appliance especially the ac draw more when they come on.

snip it:http://rvservices.koa.com/rvinformation/rvmaintenance/rv-converters-and-amp-draw.asp
It’s important to note that in an RV you can’t run several appliances at once or you’ll blow your breaker. Here’s the skinny. Your RV has either 30 amp or 50 amp capability. Amperage is the amount of power available to use. Each appliance pulls a specific number of amps. Exceed 30 or 50 amps (depending on your rig’s system) and poof – the power overloads and the breaker trips. Here’s a handy list of some of the typical appliances and the approximate amps required to operate them:

120 Volt AC Amp Ratings
Appliance or Electronic Equipment Estimated Amps
Air Conditioner (X number of A/C) 12-16 Amps
Blender 5-6 Amps
Coffee Maker 5-8 Amps
Compact Disc Player 1 Amp
Computer (Laptop) 2-3 Amps
Converter 1-8 Amps
Crock Pot 1-2 Amps
Curling Iron <1 Amp
Drill 2-6 Amps
Electric Blanket 0.5-1.5 Amps
Electric Fan 1 Amp
Electric Water Heater 9-13 Amps
Electric Skillet 6-12 Amps
Hair Dryer 5-12 Amps
Iron 5-10 Amps
Light (60 watt % 120V) <1 Amp
Microwave 8-13 Amps
Microwave (Convection Oven) 13 Amps
Refrigerator in AC mode 5-8 Amps
Space Heater 8-13 Amps
Television 1.5-4 Amps
Toaster 7-10 Amps
Vacuum (handheld) 2-6 Amps
VCR 1-2 Amps
Washer/Dryer 14-16Amps

Put the fridge and water to propane only ;)
Air and micro should then work together. (nothing else)

Otherwise you just need a 50 amp panel and a 50 amp cord. The hard part depending on access is to pull new 50 amp romex (6-3) from the cord entry to the new panel.

Hi,

You can solve the issue of running both by adding a hybrid inverter/charger that allows "load support". I use mine more or less constantly when plugged into shore power--and even on 15 amp shore power I can run the roof air and the microwave at the same time without blowing the shore power breaker.

There is more than just some wire switching to 50 amp. First 50 amp is actually two 50 amp circuits. Giving a total of 100 amps.
To switch over to true 50 amp you would need a 50 amp cord, transfer switch, wiring and breaker box. There are other ways to use one leg of a 50 amp circuit. But so many potential safety issues that I would not attempt it on the forum.
I would try some of the suggestion above before attempting a upgrade.
Here is a link to a PDF document on 120 volt 30 and 50 amp wiring.

It's not too hard to switch it. Purchase a 50 amp breaker box and cord and swap out what you have. If you have a generator transfer switch you will probably need to upgrade that to 50 amp as well. Assuming it all fits it's pretty straight forward. I converted a friends TT once and there was plenty of room for everything. I'm sure some RVs would be too tight.
This should be a simple job for an electrician but might be too much for someone with no electrical skills or experience.

I have a Winnebago Via that is 30 amp, and added a heavy duty outdoor extension cord under the bed to the utility compartment. I connect the extension cord to the electric post at campgrounds so that my wife can use her hair dryer with the AC going. If needed, I could use the extension cord for other appliances. Not every campground has an outlet on the post for extension cords, and if you cannot route the cord behind panels or beds, it could look messy. Works for us.

Usually the easiest method is to install a 50A cord and CB panel somewhere in the rig. Use a 30A CB to feed the existing panel which is now a subpanel. Then move any desired loads to the new panel.

On board gens can make it more complicated.

rockhillmanor wrote:
Its the nature of the beast and we ALL deal with the same problem.

Not all of us, as I don't have this problem with our 2009 Greyhawk with a 13.5k A/C and 1000 watt Microwave on 30 AMP service. Our refrigerator is always on Electric as is the hot water heater when we are camping. Only once in 7 years of ownership has a breaker tripped when running all 4 of these together. The A/C was firing up while the microwave was running when the breaker tripped. Not sure why it happened that one time, but it has never happened before then or since.

-Michael

I've also never had a problem with either a 13,500 BTU or 15,000 BTU air conditioner and microwave running at the same time, in any of the RVs I've owned.
Are you sure you didn't also have some other big draw item running ?