Cutting Shock Bolts

Thanks for all the responses and suggestions.

I took her in this morning to a highly recommended shop. He checked the alignment and made some adjustments and also checked the shocks. I was surprised he said the shocks are still good and he said it handled really good on his test run. On the way home it was like driving a different MH. Totally honest shop, hard to find these days. If you are ever in the Saint George, Utah area and need a good shop let me know.

It all depends on the mounting of the shock and what new hardware comes with the shock. if its just nut and bolt at one end , tighten them till it breaks off, if the lowers is a stud type, nut splitters work good or for the single threaded tops, if you have room to work. other wise the blue wrench or die grinder, it not like your trying to save the shock...

With me, my Harbor Freight impact gun and 125# air compressor were simply not up to the job. Borrowed a Snap-On impact gun and a 200# air compressor and that ALMOST took all those bolts/nuts off. The one that would really not budge, my (air powered) grinding wheel took care of it.

Also, in my case, the bolts and matching nuts were hardened...the nuts went on by hand only 2-3 turns...then the impact gun was needed do run the nut all the way to tight. (Got the hardened nuts and bolts from Grainger)

valhalla360 wrote:
DIY, you can mess around for a couple of days with penetrating oil and then spend a couple hours messing around heating and cooling the bolt, hoping it comes free...do that at $100/hr shop rate and really quick, it's cheaper to just cut it off...even if they have to re-weld something.

Yeah it's cheaper, but for who? The mechanic, the shop, the vehicle owner?

I've personally seen "mechanics" who are quick to get out the cutting/welding torch and get to work. In their haste to git 'er dun, they fail to look for, or, cant read the placard that says words to the effect of: CAUTION HEAT TREATED DO NOT CUT OR WELD FRAME MEMBERS OR SUSPENSION COMPONENTS

When the parts they were "working/cutting/welding on" fail prematurely, they're long gone with all YOUR money which THEY saved. You, if you are still alive, get to deal with the aftermath.

I'm not opposed to getting aggressive to "git 'er done." Just be sure YOU know what you're doing first.

Chum lee

DrewE wrote:

mike brez wrote:
I could not agree more :R
The only thing I would add to it is before crawling under and working on it some sort of Jack stands so you can tell us how you made out when done. Don't put your trust in your leveling jacks.

On many motorhomes, depending on one's girth and agility and so forth, it may well be unnecessary to jack the unit up at all. It can't fall off the ground.

Most DIesel Pushers I have seen with air out of bags sit really low to the ground.
JIm was a member here and irv2 he was just about to leave out of his driveway for a trip and crawled under real quick to check something out and that was it.

Jim Scoggins

DIY, you can mess around for a couple of days with penetrating oil and then spend a couple hours messing around heating and cooling the bolt, hoping it comes free...do that at $100/hr shop rate and really quick, it's cheaper to just cut it off...even if they have to re-weld something.

I wouldn't cut them unless necessary. Ass someone else said some are part of the mounts.
This is why I like to paint the undercarriage. primer/paint in spray cans doesn't cost much. I can't think of brands but several coatings that turn rust into something won't corrode any more.

Often the bolt is seized in the metal sleeve that goes through the shock bushing. Getting the nut off is only half the battle. If the nut comes off easily, you may be in luck. If it needs a major dose of penetrating oil, the bushing is likely in even worse condition. I can understand why a shop would advise they will probably have to cut it off.

mike brez wrote:
I could not agree more :R
The only thing I would add to it is before crawling under and working on it some sort of Jack stands so you can tell us how you made out when done. Don't put your trust in your leveling jacks.

On many motorhomes, depending on one's girth and agility and so forth, it may well be unnecessary to jack the unit up at all. It can't fall off the ground.

I could not agree more :R
The only thing I would add to it is before crawling under and working on it some sort of Jack stands so you can tell us how you made out when done. Don't put your trust in your leveling jacks.