Damon Hornet side puckering

A lot of times if MH has front window this is where the leak is, so try to find one without a front window. I don't think the fact that it has a sleeping area is the problem.

I agree that a conventional class-C will have a limited view from the bed over-hanging the windshield. But we own a B+ with the aerodynamic cap which is completely different. Considfering two adults, a scaled down B+ is quite a sweet rig for sightseeing. If nimble enough, you can easily stop off at near any scenic pull-off and each get out quick and easy with conventional van doors. Not so with class-As.

In reference to my earlier post on a Telstar, CLICK HERE FOR DETAILS on a 27 footer with rear walk-around queen bed, 58,000 miles, and an asking price of $12,800.

We have had 2 C's and 2A's. I was always frustrated by the very limited view from the front seat of the C's. Woith the A you sit a little higher and have a great view. The one disadvantage is you may need a little s unscreen once in a while. Most C's are now widebody and are the same width as the A's. With the A you are sitting over the front wheel so there is a little bit of adjustment to making turns on tight corners but that is easy to get used to. My first C was a Dodge 360 on a '76 chassis, 2nd was an '89 E350 with a 460, 3rd. was a 35' P30 with a 454 and current is a 38' on a Workhorse W22. With each MH the MPG has improved, going from 5 to 6.5, 7.5 and now 8.7 on the current one. Most of those differences have come from engine improvements.

Hi bsinmich

I haven't considered a class A as I thought they would be in poor condition for my price range, get much worse gas mileage and be much more difficult to drive. Am I wrong?

Why was the cabover area rebuilt? Most likely from water damage. Why not look at a Class A and avoid the whole problem with the cabover water leak problems? You have to be aware of delamination in a Class A as well but there is no cabover to worry about. Newmar, Monaco & Holiday Rambler used hung walls with no lamination to delaminate.

There is no guarantee that the worse choice will leak. As well, no guarantee the better choice will never leak. It's all about reducing risk. Read through my earlier post a few times to let this all sink in.

Remember, in your $10k price range, you are looking at old rigs where concern for this issue is at hand. When purchased new, you have time before the risk of a leak increases.

Ron

A picture IS worth a thousand words. Got it.
Thanks
George

G and D wrote:
While the seams are on the corners it is in our price limitations. The model is an Ultrasport. What is your opinion of this manufacturer?

It is not about the manufacture, but rather the particular model-line of the manufacture.

I cannot endorse seamed corners like this.


Get this type with seams moved from corners around to the side of the rig.


This is especially critical when purchasing an old rig, valued in the $10,000 price range.

Ron

WOW that reply should be posted permanently. It is a great information source.

I am slowly weeding out the MH that appear to have issues (a lot of them). Dee and I arnt leaving until we have Christmas with the Grandkids then the two of us are running from the snow in NH so we have a lot of time to sort before making a purchase.

One MH that appears to be built better than the usual is the Damon. While the seams are on the corners it is in our price limitations. The model is an Ultrasport. What is your opinion of this manufacturer?

Thanks so much for the comprehensive response.

George & Dee

George and Dee,

You did not say how many people you need to accomodate. If only two, do NOT consider any rig with sleeping accomodations over the cab. This solely to avoid present and/or near future water leaks.

$10,000 pretty much limits you to something in the 1990's. My advice it to double that amount to $20,000 as a Ford chassis with the V10 engine will be much better and more fuel efficient. But.....

If you are stuck in the $10,000 range, I strongly advise you look serious at a Telstar. They are well built, offered in many different floorplans, and are priced in your range. I suggest a Telstar because it is one of the few in that time period that fits into my general criteria below.

---------------------

When shopping for any conventional class-C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. What methods are built to last, and what methods are built to be most affordable.

Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is.

When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with what I call "Eye Candy" and/or "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water penetration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets in, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Mold can also form and then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a Reliably Well Sealed motor home.

#1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.75 to 2 times the cost of Second Best)
NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, door, roof-top vents and a/c unit, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes are limited in size.

#2 SECOND BEST
Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus
I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA.
Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water. Here are the good things you want to look for.

a) Structural Seams Away From Corners
When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans, many thousands of times. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lower stressed areas.

b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap
A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven. It is common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with most seam work.

There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. Born Free offers a seamless bucket design as seen in This Model. Winnebago's View Here is another fine example. Some manufactures as of late offer a partial bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. The Nexus Phantom applies a partial bucket concept. If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, that extra bed would be extremely important.

c) A Crowned Roof
Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after the caulk has dried out from age & sun, as well as fatigue from the change in seasons.

d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing
A single sheet of fiberglass that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down the wall a few inches. The fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.

e) A 5 Sided Rear Wall Cap
This 5 sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress.

Potentially Troublesome Construction
Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.

There are also rare exception like the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best

About The Chassis
The most popular is the Ford E-Series with the V10 engine. The Sprinter diesel is a popular alternative to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM chassis is not popular, but is a very good choice for the right application. Any of those three brands since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Sprinter is the least powered chassis. People who tow with a Sprinter, take it slower.

If considering a recent “small” class B+/C motor home, here is a comparison between the two main contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine.

Advantages Of The Sprinter With Diesel Engine
- Offers a 35% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically.
- More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room.
- Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride.
- A grander view out the windshield
- Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.

Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine
- Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $13,000 MSRP cheaper
- The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque
- The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.
- The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.
- The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.
- In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel
- The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America
- The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.
- This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions or you are dangerously low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.

You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Via, View and View Profile. Others like Phoenix USA build their model 2350 and 2400 on both the Sprinter and Ford E350. They will even build it on the heaviest duty E450 upon request for a nominal fee. People who request an E450 for a small motor home, tow heavier things like for example, a multi-horse trailer. You can even special order a E350 & E450 4x4.

There is so much cool stuff offered in recent years, and even more anticipated with the upcoming Ford T-Series chassis. The general public hopes it will become available for the RV industry. It is kind-of like a Sprinter in size and fuel economy, but hopeful to be much more affordable.

The Chevy GMC 3500/4500 Chassis
I do not understand why this chassis is not more popular. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches to store your rig, the Chevy/GMC adds an additional 9" to the front bumper compared to the Ford. I learned that researching rigs that could fit in my 25'-0" deep garage. By default, the Ford gave me 9 more inches to work with. If you examine my motor home in my garage HERE, you will see an extra 9 inches in length might have been detrimental.

Engine Power Ratings of Ford, Sprinter, & GMC/Chevy
Ford - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft
Srinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft
GMC/Chevy - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft