Folks,A few days ago I went out to start the generator on my '96 Itasca Suncruiser for just it's regular monthly warmup when I noticed that I had no DC cabin power. This is all of a sudden. For months (years?) all has been fine.I expected it might be a battery issue, even though I keep the batteries connected to microchip style battery monitors when the rig is being stored. But, the batteries tested fine using a multimeter. And, when I attached 12v bulbs to the battery directly they lit normally. The minders indicate full/normal status.But, when I try to start the generator all I get is solenoid clicking noises. The engine starts normally, but I know that uses a separate battery circuit.Is there a main DC fuse that might have blown? I cleaned the negative line where it bolts to the the frame. The terminals themselves do not appear corroded.I'm at a loss.:?

Do you have a cabin battery disconnect switch? Is it turned on?

Can you measure the battery voltage while trying to start generator. Does sound like bad battery.

Just a few thoughts to consider...Check convertor circuit connections/fuses/breakers? Did you have cabin power without the generator running? IE., normal 12VDC lights turn on? If not, then I'd lean towards the battery.Do you have 120VAC in the outlets with the genset running?What was your volt meter reading on the battery without chargers or without the engine running? If it's only 12VDC then it's going or has already gone bad. A 12VDC light bulb (unless it's LED) will work on lesser voltages than 12VDC....just not as bright. It should be somewhere in the 13.5-14VDC range without a load on it. Check for tripped breakers and/or blown fuses at your house main panelAgain, just some thoughts to hopefully get you on a direction anyway....

10forty2 wrote:Just a few thoughts to consider...Check convertor circuit connections/fuses/breakers? Did you have cabin power without the generator running? IE., normal 12VDC lights turn on? If not, then I'd lean towards the battery.Do you have 120VAC in the outlets with the genset running?What was your volt meter reading on the battery without chargers or without the engine running? If it's only 12VDC then it's going or has already gone bad. A 12VDC light bulb (unless it's LED) will work on lesser voltages than 12VDC....just not as bright. It should be somewhere in the 13.5-14VDC range without a load on it. Check for tripped breakers and/or blown fuses at your house main panelAgain, just some thoughts to hopefully get you on a direction anyway....This is a reply to everyone who has posted a suggestion. My thanks to all.1.) There is no battery disconnect switch.2.) The generator will not start, only clicks.3.) I'll re-check with the meter as to the voltage. The light I attached was extremely bright.These are 2 batteries in parallel. I even attached a third from my shop that I knew to be good. Still no luck.4.) All appliance fuses are fine. But, is there a Main fuse somewhere?:h

If a main fuse was out, I don't think you would hear a click. It might be hard but measure the voltage at the generator starter while trying to start it. Also check all battery and starter ground connections.

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MountainAir05
Explorer II
Oct 10, 2014
Disconnect the house battery Ground and connect the 1 good battery that you have to the positive and neg cable using jumper cables. You only have one good battery, Generator should start, if just clicking check the starter.
Coelacanth
Explorer
Oct 10, 2014
MountainAir05 wrote:
Disconnect the house battery Ground and connect the 1 good battery that you have to the positive and neg cable using jumper cables. You only have one good battery, Generator should start, if just clicking check the starter.

Going to do it now.

:W
Coelacanth
Explorer
Oct 10, 2014
Coelacanth wrote:
MountainAir05 wrote:
Disconnect the house battery Ground and connect the 1 good battery that you have to the positive and neg cable using jumper cables. You only have one good battery, Generator should start, if just clicking check the starter.

Going to do it now.

:W

O.K., this falls into the "huh?" category.

I went out to the rig, figured I'd see if the RV motor would start. It always has, so far.
Yep. No problem.
So, then...just for hoots, I thought that if I held down the Aux Battery button on the dash that maybe the generator would kick over. Well, I'll be dipped. It started first kick.
Then I checked the interior cabin lights. Fine.

So, I let the engine and the generator run for 20 minutes while I did a few other chores.
I then went back, shut down the generator & turned off the ignition.
I figured, here goes. I hit the interior light switch and the room lights came on as they normally would.

Must be gremlins!?
Or, more realistically a loose connection somewhere??

I'm going to try again later and see how we stand.

:h
Mandalay_Parr
Explorer
Oct 10, 2014
Still sounds lik bad battery.
Lt46
Explorer II
Oct 10, 2014
Dutch_12078 wrote:
I'm surprised that a '96 Winnie does not have a battery disconnect, usually located near the entry door, but the generator clicking suggests a very low voltage condition, rather than a blown fuse. Our '95 Coachmen Class A did have a 150 amp main fuse for the coach DC, but it was attached to the battery disconnect solenoid. When it blew, it also removed all power to the generator starter as well as the cabin.

You won't find it at the door, it's on the leftside of the dash, under the Aux.Batt. switch. At least that's where it is on my 97.
Coelacanth
Explorer
Oct 11, 2014
Lt46 wrote:
Dutch_12078 wrote:
I'm surprised that a '96 Winnie does not have a battery disconnect, usually located near the entry door, but the generator clicking suggests a very low voltage condition, rather than a blown fuse. Our '95 Coachmen Class A did have a 150 amp main fuse for the coach DC, but it was attached to the battery disconnect solenoid. When it blew, it also removed all power to the generator starter as well as the cabin.

You won't find it at the door, it's on the leftside of the dash, under the Aux.Batt. switch. At least that's where it is on my 97.

Thanks.
I'll check first thing in the AM.

;)
Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Oct 11, 2014
Lt46 wrote:
Dutch_12078 wrote:
I'm surprised that a '96 Winnie does not have a battery disconnect, usually located near the entry door, but the generator clicking suggests a very low voltage condition, rather than a blown fuse. Our '95 Coachmen Class A did have a 150 amp main fuse for the coach DC, but it was attached to the battery disconnect solenoid. When it blew, it also removed all power to the generator starter as well as the cabin.

You won't find it at the door, it's on the leftside of the dash, under the Aux.Batt. switch. At least that's where it is on my 97.

Ahh, ok, I figured it had to be somewhere. :)
Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Oct 11, 2014
Coelacanth wrote:

O.K., this falls into the "huh?" category.

I went out to the rig, figured I'd see if the RV motor would start. It always has, so far.
Yep. No problem.
So, then...just for hoots, I thought that if I held down the Aux Battery button on the dash that maybe the generator would kick over. Well, I'll be dipped. It started first kick.
Then I checked the interior cabin lights. Fine.

So, I let the engine and the generator run for 20 minutes while I did a few other chores.
I then went back, shut down the generator & turned off the ignition.
I figured, here goes. I hit the interior light switch and the room lights came on as they normally would.

Must be gremlins!?
Or, more realistically a loose connection somewhere??

I'm going to try again later and see how we stand.

:h

The battery disconnect solenoid on many rigs will automatically connect when the converter turns on. Firing up the generator or plugging into shore power would both do that.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Oct 11, 2014
NOTE: the purpose of this post is to suggest POSSIBLE issues and options.

On my coach there is a disconnect, most all (of not all) motor homes have them, I won't bother you with where mine is since you already looked there.

BUT. In addition to this switch, the diagrams for the battery control center installed in my coach call for a pair of 30 amp PUSH TO RESET circuit breakers in the bottom of the box,, You have to push in very very hard on these to reset.

I do not have those either.. I have a self resetting thermal breaker next to the box.

Some RV's have fuses or "Stand alone" breakers (like mine some self resetting some push button to reset)

And finally we have the ever popular bad connection.

There is more but that is more specific to my coach than yours.

IF you have an AUX battery switch.. that is your disconnect control, the actual disconnect may be elsewhere.

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