Hello all, I am at my wits end with an electrical issue! I think I have narrowed it down to a DC or converter problem, but I want to be sure enough on whether I should buy a new converter or not. Here's where it started:DH drove away with shore power plugged in. Pigtail was fine, but the ground on extension cord was yanked off. After three days now of going over all outlets, lights, and appliances with some wonderful help from friends who are knowledgeable about household electric but not RV, and everyone being stymied, here's what we have discovered:Shore power still works. Outlets tested with multimeter test ok. We currently (pun intended) have left the converter out so if we need to put a new one in, we don't have to go through all the trouble of taking it back out. It is a one-shot, riveted shut that cannot be taken apart to check any internal relay switch. (a Magnetek 45 amp)Fridge will only switch between AC and propane, even when disconnected from shore power and on coach power. It just turns itself off completely and cannot be turned on manually.All interior DC lights work. Fan for air cond and heater turns on.The monitor panel containing the levels test, water pump, water heater, and vent fan is dead in all three power modes. Generator on/off works (also on monitor panel)Outside radio (a DC appliance) is fried.DH fully charged coach batteries, but they have not been load tested.I do not know where the fuses are for each of those functions, but being that the whole panel is dead, I don't think it's a fuse issue...?Please help, the diagnostics cost for the whole system at an RV shop is crazy and I'd like to say I have a converter problem, or a fuse, or whatever. And it is really getting old taking a shower out of buckets heated on the stove.

Would help to know what kind of rig!DC fuses are normally adjacent to the 120 volt circuit breakers behind a metal plate.There could be fuse on the end DC output of the converter.

Hi, sorry, forgot to include that! I have a 1997 Itasca Sundancer. Yes, we have checked all the circuit breakers on the AC panel and the fuses on the DC panel, they are fine.

The refer sounds like it is not getting 12 volts DC power from the battery. Try cycling the battery disconnect.Check the DC power panel for a main fuse. Test the fuses with a test light or meter.Locate your battery disconnect relay. There could be 12 DC circuit breakers adjacent to it. My circuit breakers are in the battery control center under the hood driver's side. (I have Fleetwood Pace Arrow so location may be different) I have two circuit breakers

Monitor panel needs 12 volts and it seems that it may not. Look for fuse or circuit breaker in power panel. And you could copy and paste this URL into your browser: http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm

The multimeter is your friend. Check to see if the converter is converting, however it is a good idea to replace it on general principle Progressive Dynamics has one that can probably drop in easily. You do however need to find out if you have continuity and where you do and do not have power.

DC Electrical problem! | Good Sam Community

25 Replies

Bordercollie
Explorer
Feb 10, 2014
Is your converter pluggged into the power panel and getting 120vac. Is it putting out 13+ volts DC at its terminals and are the heavy 10 guage cables from converter connected securely to the converter and to the house battery? Is the house battery disconnect relay snapping when you turn the disconnect switch off and on. Some rigs have no 12 volt power if the converter isn't working and/or if the disconnect switch and its relay aren't working. There are probably some 12 volt dc fuses in a block near your house battery as well located in the same power panel with the 120vac circuit breakers that your converter is plugged into. Your fridge, furnace, water heater and maybe the microwave have control circuits and memories, etc., that require 12 volt DC power even when on 120volt AC power. if you don't have one, get a cheap digital voltmeter to check voltages, set it to the proper scale per instruction sheet.
enblethen
Nomad
Feb 10, 2014
Your converter does not have reverse fuses. The 9260 will be a good replacement.
OP: Do you have a filter adjacent to the converter? Mine had a blue capacitor about 1.5 inches in diameter and 5 inches tall.
Look for the insulated stud that connects the converter to the battery to the DC distribution panel. This would be a good test point.
Magnetek 7445
caro3583
Explorer
Feb 10, 2014
enblethen wrote:
OP:
What is the model of your converter. Electrical diagrams show is as a separate unit from the AC and DC power distribution.
The one Bobbo referenced is for a combined assembly.

It is a Magnetek 7445. Located it on one of the wiring diagrams, but once we got a zero reading from the DC fuse box, we figured the converter was the culprit. Did not check reverse polarity ( I have no idea what that is; I'm basically just reporting a lot of stuff here ). But we've had tweaky stuff happening with the batts not getting charged fully while driving, and we have never heard the converter fan cycle on, so just went ahead and ordered a new converter. The Magnetek didn't seem highly rated anyway, what the heck.
caro3583
Explorer
Feb 10, 2014
Well, after reading many forum threads and calling around, I talked to Randy at best converter. He recommended the Powermax Boondocker, and it will be a simple replacement for DH to do himself. It is on its way, and I will post back and let you know how that went. If my monitor panel is still out, I am going back to candles...:)
It looks like converter issues plague many RVers!!
enblethen
Nomad
Feb 09, 2014
OP:
What is the model of your converter. Electrical diagrams show is as a separate unit from the AC and DC power distribution.
The one Bobbo referenced is for a combined assembly.
Bobbo
Explorer III
Feb 09, 2014
tenbear wrote:
caro3583 wrote:
Looking at the Progressive Dynamics 9245 converter. I have a Magnetek 45 amp, is it recommended to stay at the same amperage, or can I go to a 60 amp?

If your current converter is the 7345, the PD9260 would fit in the same space while the PD9245 is larger. Installing the PD9260 requires some work, modifying the old converter case. The PD 4645, and PD4655, is pretty much a plug and play replacement.

As someone else said, the battery and the converter should be tied together. If the voltage is not close to the same at the battery and the converter then there is something open between them, probably a fuse or circuit breaker.

Get the PD4655 instead of the PD9260. It is a direct drop in replacement for the Magnetek.
pnichols
Explorer II
Feb 09, 2014
Are you sure that the only DC fuses are those close to the converter?

My Itasca Class C has it's DC fuses inside a metal box covered by a steel plate with metal twist-open fasteners on the plate. This metal box is located on the back wall of the outside storage cabinet that is on the passenger side of the coach at the coach's front corner behind the passenger area of the cab.
tenbear
Explorer
Feb 09, 2014
caro3583 wrote:
Looking at the Progressive Dynamics 9245 converter. I have a Magnetek 45 amp, is it recommended to stay at the same amperage, or can I go to a 60 amp?

If your current converter is the 7345, the PD9260 would fit in the same space while the PD9245 is larger. Installing the PD9260 requires some work, modifying the old converter case. The PD 4645, and PD4655, is pretty much a plug and play replacement.

As someone else said, the battery and the converter should be tied together. If the voltage is not close to the same at the battery and the converter then there is something open between them, probably a fuse or circuit breaker.
enblethen
Nomad
Feb 09, 2014
Looking further at your wiring diagram, the only thing that is common is the 3/8 isolated stud near the converter.
enblethen
Nomad
Feb 09, 2014
The wire should go directly from the battery to the battery main fuse in the DC power section.
Battery connects to coach battery disconnect relay. Check the battery side of relay for battery voltage, then check the coach side readings should be the same.
Output then by Winnebago goes to a 40 circuit breaker Located below dash POD(?)
What is make and model of your DC power distribution panel?

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DC Electrical problem!

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