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caro3583's avatar
caro3583
Explorer
Feb 09, 2014

DC Electrical problem!

Hello all, I am at my wits end with an electrical issue! I think I have narrowed it down to a DC or converter problem, but I want to be sure enough on whether I should buy a new converter or not. Here's where it started:

DH drove away with shore power plugged in. Pigtail was fine, but the ground on extension cord was yanked off. After three days now of going over all outlets, lights, and appliances with some wonderful help from friends who are knowledgeable about household electric but not RV, and everyone being stymied, here's what we have discovered:

Shore power still works. Outlets tested with multimeter test ok. We currently (pun intended) have left the converter out so if we need to put a new one in, we don't have to go through all the trouble of taking it back out. It is a one-shot, riveted shut that cannot be taken apart to check any internal relay switch. (a Magnetek 45 amp)

Fridge will only switch between AC and propane, even when disconnected from shore power and on coach power. It just turns itself off completely and cannot be turned on manually.

All interior DC lights work. Fan for air cond and heater turns on.

The monitor panel containing the levels test, water pump, water heater, and vent fan is dead in all three power modes. Generator on/off works (also on monitor panel)

Outside radio (a DC appliance) is fried.

DH fully charged coach batteries, but they have not been load tested.

I do not know where the fuses are for each of those functions, but being that the whole panel is dead, I don't think it's a fuse issue...?

Please help, the diagnostics cost for the whole system at an RV shop is crazy and I'd like to say I have a converter problem, or a fuse, or whatever. And it is really getting old taking a shower out of buckets heated on the stove.

25 Replies

  • The multimeter is your friend. Check to see if the converter is converting, however it is a good idea to replace it on general principle Progressive Dynamics has one that can probably drop in easily.
    You do however need to find out if you have continuity and where you do and do not have power.
  • Monitor panel needs 12 volts and it seems that it may not. Look for fuse or circuit breaker in power panel. And you could copy and paste this URL into your browser: http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm
  • The refer sounds like it is not getting 12 volts DC power from the battery. Try cycling the battery disconnect.
    Check the DC power panel for a main fuse. Test the fuses with a test light or meter.
    Locate your battery disconnect relay. There could be 12 DC circuit breakers adjacent to it. My circuit breakers are in the battery control center under the hood driver's side. (I have Fleetwood Pace Arrow so location may be different) I have two circuit breakers
  • Hi, sorry, forgot to include that! I have a 1997 Itasca Sundancer. Yes, we have checked all the circuit breakers on the AC panel and the fuses on the DC panel, they are fine.
  • Would help to know what kind of rig!
    DC fuses are normally adjacent to the 120 volt circuit breakers behind a metal plate.
    There could be fuse on the end DC output of the converter.