Did I just Get Lied To?

I found that over the years I knew more than all but one of our salesmen. 8 rigs This little C that we bought does not have jacks and I have found that so far in 3 years I have never stacked more than 2 high I always level to the frige because even if the stick on levels we put on the sides and rear are level the frige may be set in a little off so I always level to it On these new friges the bubble doesn't need to be entirely in. Good luck.

Bordercollie wrote:
We ran the Dometic fridge in our 20014 Tioga for months parked in our driveway at a slight rear-down angle. It died, leaking ammonia refrigerant, replaced with a same size new Norcold fridge. Was told that modern absorption fridges are not as resistant to damage when off-level. Best to use bubble level in bottom and have rig near level for longest cooling unit life.You hear all kinds of opinions. A new fridge costs over $1K!

If it leaked ammonia, that failure was probably not due to operation out of level but rather due to general corrosion. Out-of-level operation generally leads to crystals forming and eventually blocking the flow of coolant, not to leaks forming that let the coolant out.

I have a carefully adjusted bubble level glued to the driver’s cup holder. Leveling usually is achieved by looking at the campsite as I drive in and perhaps moving over a couple of times. I’ve never had to go more than 2 pieces of plank high. More trouble in parking lots but easy to turn off the fridge while shopping. I choose to back in if necessary to get the dual wheels high because it is easier to raise the front wheels.

I don't know exactly what the salesperson said, but I think this is reasonable: Modern RV absorption fridges aren't as picky about level as older ones were. Things have changed.

How level is level? I think this advice is sound:
http://www.rvdoctor.com/2012/03/rv-refrigerator-relatively-level.html

Bordercollie wrote:
We ran the Dometic fridge in our 20014 Tioga for months parked in our driveway at a slight rear-down angle. It died, leaking ammonia refrigerant, replaced with a same size new Norcold fridge. Was told that modern absorption fridges are not as resistant to damage when off-level. Best to use bubble level in bottom and have rig near level for longest cooling unit life.You hear all kinds of opinions. A new fridge costs over $1K!

Thanks for your reply! The salesperson lied to me, no doubt about it. I called him on it, and you should of heard him trying to talk his way out of it! Pathetic.

We ran the Dometic fridge in our 20014 Tioga for months parked in our driveway at a slight rear-down angle. It died, leaking ammonia refrigerant, replaced with a same size new Norcold fridge. Was told that modern absorption fridges are not as resistant to damage when off-level. Best to use bubble level in bottom and have rig near level for longest cooling unit life.You hear all kinds of opinions. A new fridge costs over $1K!

As little as 5 minutes off level can send boiler temperatures skyrocketing.

At ARP seminars I have attended at FMCA Conventions, he has an absorption refrigerator cooling unit with a digital thermometer on it that displays on the screen.

He tilts the unit and you can watch as the temperature goes up. No sales hype-- you can see the affect of running out of level.

As many has said, the damage is cumulative. One "out of level" is not going to kill the unit.

But, we have been on many L O N G grades out west where you would not want the refrigerator to be running. The ARP controller automatically turns off and back on the refrigerator based on boiler temperature.

And, whether this was a "lie" or just an uninformed sales person, I have no idea.

But, your refrigerator owners manual is a much better source for how many degrees out of level will affect the cooling unit than any sales person.

JumboJet wrote:
I have owned 10 different RVs - still have two. From real world experience, 20 minute ruination theory is wrong. I have been off-level on road sides, parked off level for a few days etc. I always try to get as level as possible, but sometimes you just can't do it.

20 minutes off-level is long enough to cause overheating

Overheating causes damage which is ACCUMULATIVE.
A little here, a little there...all adds up cause the crystals that are formed do NOT go back into solution. The metal fatigue does NOT go away or heal.
Time....accumulative damage.......until Ruination occurs.
Fact not theory

JumboJet wrote:
I have owned 10 different RVs - still have two. From real world experience, 20 minute ruination theory is wrong. I have been off-level on road sides, parked off level for a few days etc. I always try to get as level as possible, but sometimes you just can't do it.

It isn't wrong as I have seen otherwise and had to pay for it.
You probably were not off-level enough to do damage.

I have owned 10 different RVs - still have two. From real world experience, 20 minute ruination theory is wrong. I have been off-level on road sides, parked off level for a few days etc. I always try to get as level as possible, but sometimes you just can't do it.