DIY camper: cargo or window van?
I'm actively looking for a gently used 1992 or newer, extended Ford van to do my own camper. I need to ask if there are any aspects I've missed, in considering whether to get a passenger van, or a car...
Forum Discussion
Thanks for the reminder about Sportsmobile forums. I had read a couple of their threads -- as unregistered and not able to view pics. I've now registered, and have been pouring over the archive.
Lotta guys there like a window van, often without adding or replacing in-wall insulation. They have noted that window vans are stiffer, due to reinforcements welded around the window frames. And, it's much easier to remove passenger features in a window van than to add passenger features to a cargo van.
Another note was that, if adding vent fan or custom top to a passenger van, the air conditioning air ducting (which appear to be part of the headliner) had to be removed or modified.
And, apparently there's about 6 inches of width below the window line that's wasted by the stock panels in the rear of a passenger wagon. Gaining this space is why some guys choose to remove and re-panel.
Another note I found interesting was about windows in the 60-40 doors: if the van does not come with windows that have (or could have as an option?) the hinged tip-outs, such windows can NOT be added to windowless doors. There's a provision on windowed doors that does not exist on non-windowed doors... thus, any windows added would NOT be hinged tip-out.
Edit: In the interest of making this post as complete as I'm capable, I'm adding a few more things I've learned from continued reading.
1) The passenger vans are more likely to contain "full floating" rear axle assemblies. These axles are better for load carrying, use with wheel spacers, and for general robustness. They can be identified by looking at the rear hubs, where a protrusion beyond the rim of 3-5 inches indicates full floating. Apparently most (all?) E350 wagons through about 2003 had them. And, they were used in some later years, as well. Cargo vans typically had them only when special ordered.
2) If one wants to remove the rear AC unit, the freon/coolant hoses that go to the compressor up front have to be joined with a length of hose in place of the AC unit. This has to be done by a qualified shop, at a cost of $200 or so. They capture the coolant, install the hose, then recharge the AC system.
Lotta guys there like a window van, often without adding or replacing in-wall insulation. They have noted that window vans are stiffer, due to reinforcements welded around the window frames. And, it's much easier to remove passenger features in a window van than to add passenger features to a cargo van.
Another note was that, if adding vent fan or custom top to a passenger van, the air conditioning air ducting (which appear to be part of the headliner) had to be removed or modified.
And, apparently there's about 6 inches of width below the window line that's wasted by the stock panels in the rear of a passenger wagon. Gaining this space is why some guys choose to remove and re-panel.
Another note I found interesting was about windows in the 60-40 doors: if the van does not come with windows that have (or could have as an option?) the hinged tip-outs, such windows can NOT be added to windowless doors. There's a provision on windowed doors that does not exist on non-windowed doors... thus, any windows added would NOT be hinged tip-out.
Edit: In the interest of making this post as complete as I'm capable, I'm adding a few more things I've learned from continued reading.
1) The passenger vans are more likely to contain "full floating" rear axle assemblies. These axles are better for load carrying, use with wheel spacers, and for general robustness. They can be identified by looking at the rear hubs, where a protrusion beyond the rim of 3-5 inches indicates full floating. Apparently most (all?) E350 wagons through about 2003 had them. And, they were used in some later years, as well. Cargo vans typically had them only when special ordered.
2) If one wants to remove the rear AC unit, the freon/coolant hoses that go to the compressor up front have to be joined with a length of hose in place of the AC unit. This has to be done by a qualified shop, at a cost of $200 or so. They capture the coolant, install the hose, then recharge the AC system.
stan909 wrote:
Although I love this forum,there are better places for DIY questions.sportsmobileforum. com has a groundup build section and cheaprvliving.com is all DIY. Getting to your question re panel vs window. Adding Windows later is expensive but insulating unused windows is cheap and easy.retired hotel and medical transport vans are plentiful( at least here in SoCal)and since they already have the high top that wil save you big bucks.
