Do need weight distribution hitch, drop hitch or both?

Vt Rv wrote:
My coach Std. Wt 17k, a GVWR of 20.7, a CGWR of 26K and has a 5K receiver hitch. I know the trailer is going to be close the 5K.

Looking at these forums and seeing what people are towing I can't imagine that I'm the exception with these ratios.

There will be 4 adults and gear. Fresh water for the trip out and back.

I do plan on loading it up and putting it on the scales before heading out but by then it will be late for making drastic changes to the plan.

I'm open to any suggestions shy of trading for a DP, not that I wouldn't love to but not an option at the moment.

The 5K rating of the hitch is saying you can pull something that weighs 5,000 lbs witch is fine for a car because there is virtually no tongue wt. Your potential problem is not with that it will be the maximum of 500 lbs that you can put on the tongue, this is were people get into problems and bust the receiver loose from the frame.

Another thing folks don't think about is that tongue wt is not a static load unless you're not moving....than it becomes dynamic and can easily increase 2 to 4X on rough roads.

You're probably OK but be careful and have the receiver inspected before you head out.

My coach Std. Wt 17k, a GVWR of 20.7, a CGWR of 26K and has a 5K receiver hitch. I know the trailer is going to be close the 5K.

Looking at these forums and seeing what people are towing I can't imagine that I'm the exception with these ratios.

There will be 4 adults and gear. Fresh water for the trip out and back.

I do plan on loading it up and putting it on the scales before heading out but by then it will be late for making drastic changes to the plan.

I'm open to any suggestions shy of trading for a DP, not that I wouldn't love to but not an option at the moment.

OOPs Double post

As far as using a WDH goes, most MH do not have a receiver rated for use with a WDH. They really are different so pay attention to the the max hitch wt of the receiver which may inhibit you a bit since a low tongue wt could result in trailer sway.

FYI, it's not uncommon to see MH receivers separate from the chassis do owners not paying attention to the loads.

If in doubt consult a reputable hitch installer for advice.

Ummm.....you've never pulled before, you're starting out overweight and you are asking what kind of hitch you'll need....first thing you'd better check is your GVCWR, then have the trailer weighed AFTER it's loaded. If you're like most people headed to Sturgis, you'll add many more pounds as you're packing that trailer and coach...three bikes, six adults, plus "stuff"....travel safe......Dennis

You have the right idea Steve with a drop hitch get everything as level as possible!

chuckftboy wrote:
A quality drop hitch is all you need. It would be nice if that trailer has brakes too. Just make sure to keep the weight of the bikes over the axles if you can and you shouldn't have any problem.

I don't know if that kind of trailer is included,but most states require trailer brakes on rigs over 2500-3000#.I can't figger how they can get away with 10-15K boats on a trailer with surge brakes only.

A quality drop hitch is all you need. It would be nice if that trailer has brakes too. Just make sure to keep the weight of the bikes over the axles if you can and you shouldn't have any problem.

I would not use a drop adapter with WDH. Get the right drop shank if needed.

Can't say if Wdh is appopriate without MH weights and hitch specifics.

I use a 10 inch drop hitch to bring the level to within 3 inches up/down between RV and toad. Tow bar manufacturer says 3" is mandatory. Somewhere else, I read that a drop more than 6 inches puts too much stress on the hitch. A quandary for sure. The drop hitch puts the distance between RV and toad out an extra foot causing drag at steep driveways/dips. I just have to be careful at those situations. It seems reasonable to be as aligned as possible within the 3 inch rule.