door lock

There is nothing wrong with the basic Tri-mark save the metal used for the bolts.

A Metal Smith can copy the bolt in a better metal.

Well, mark734 has given us a running start on an old issue without returning to see what he started, well at least not posting anything. I wonder if he is still locked in/out and whether there ever was an issue or just someone wanting to see how we would run with a potentially serious problem.

I sure hope he has resolved his problem by now, two days is a long time to be locked in/out.

FeeLine wrote:
All good info guys, but I have a question, does anyone know of a good replacement lock? My lock has stuck a few times and I would like to replace it with a reliable lock before I get locked in or out.

Replacement for which lock? They're not all interchangeable.

All good info guys, but I have a question, does anyone know of a good replacement lock? My lock has stuck a few times and I would like to replace it with a reliable lock before I get locked in or out.

If it is a tri-mark then I need to know if the deadbolt is set or just the striker bolt.

on th striker bolt the weakest point is the highest stress point (Excellent design) and it will break.. When this happens the handle can no longer retract the striker bolt.

Using a mechanic's seal pic.. I used the "L" shaped one.. I was able to depress the bolt without doing MAJOR damage to the RV and open the door.. Then replace the lock

If you pull the parts carefully a machinest can make you one out of STEEL.. Much stronger.

Got locked INSIDE one night on the Nova Scotia coast. Had to take dogs out through the window to walk them.
Next day unscrewed the lock from inside. No go.
Took door loose. Still would not let go.
Finally had to cut the plunger with a saw to release. Of course I had to get a new lock.

Groover wrote:
I got stuck in mine a while back and I could feel the latch working when I pulled the handle. The problem was that one of the extra studs above and below the striker had had unscrewed itself with road vibrations and was interfering with the door frame. Fortunately, it had not gone very far and after using the fire escape I was able to pry the door frame out enough to get the door open and remove the stud.

Yeah, I've seen that happen as well, only fortunately, just enough to cause a bind that could be overcome with a bit of extra opening effort. Reinstalling the stud with Loctite thread locker cured the problem.

If the OP gave us a little more information, we could likely be more helpful in addressing his specific problem.

I got stuck in mine a while back and I could feel the latch working when I pulled the handle. The problem was that one of the extra studs above and below the striker had had unscrewed itself with road vibrations and was interfering with the door frame. Fortunately, it had not gone very far and after using the fire escape I was able to pry the door frame out enough to get the door open and remove the stud.

Dutch_12078 wrote:

rgatijnet1 wrote:
Sort of a known problem on a lot of RV doors that use the Trimark handle. The pot metal breaks inside and the latch must be drilled out to open the door. Many people ONLY use the dead bolt portion of the lock and do not use the other lock that controls the door handle.

If you have access to the inside of the RV by other means, the Trimark lock can be released without drilling.

X10

I have been locked out once and replaced it and again with the new lock. First one cost me $500 repair on the road. Second one I did myself.

If it is a Trimark you CAN take it out your self. Not easy and a real pain but it CAN be done without any drilling from the INSIDE.

If you really can not get in thru a window or such you have to pry the door molding away from the lock to get at it but you don't have to drill into it.

I took the second lock out when it jammed due to the pot metal and I took the lock set off from the INSIDE and removed the lock and put it back in. Danged if I was going to pay for yet another lock.

BTW: I took the door handle lock mechanism OUT of the lock, taped the opening and ONLY use the dead bolt. Still in and still working.

Still ticks me off what we pay for these coaches and they use those cheap lock sets.

rgatijnet1 wrote:
Sort of a known problem on a lot of RV doors that use the Trimark handle. The pot metal breaks inside and the latch must be drilled out to open the door. Many people ONLY use the dead bolt portion of the lock and do not use the other lock that controls the door handle.

If you have access to the inside of the RV by other means, the Trimark lock can be released without drilling.