Drivers side Window lift motor
Has anyone replaced their drivers door window lift motor? Mine went out and after much searching (literally went to Autozone and they let me dig through all the boxes to find the right gear and mounti...
Forum Discussion
Well this has been a lesson in patience...
Taking everyone's advice I disconnected the motor and cut into my wires. Using a battery charger at 10 amps I simply applied power; remarkably nothing happened so I was thinking I had a bad motor. I decided at that point to check one last thing - the wiring harness that plugged into the motor harness (its different than the stock harness from the coach so you have to splice them together). Since the motor came with numerous other adaptors I used a different one - voila!, the motor started spinning. First problem solved. Next I went ahead and spliced the coach wires with the second harness together and hit the switch. The motor barely moved (but it did move). Now I'm thinking "okay, I've got voltage on my meter but what is the amperage"; long story short the switch is not pushing enough consistent amperage to make the motor activate (0.1 and 0.2 amps only when 10 should be flowing).
Here's where I am at now:
1. the realization that you probably didn't need a new motor but bought one anyway - $40
2. the cost of a new switch - $5 on Amazon
3. the realization that voltage does not equate to amperage - priceless
For those that maybe someday will need this information, here's what I have purchased (thus far):
-Dorman 742-264 Window Lift Motor from Autozone (this fit my Muncy 18-05 regulator gear but yours will most likely be different)
-Power Window Rocker Switch 5 Wire Reverse Polarity Control from Amazon (size does matter with this one - check it closely)
The switch should be here next week so I'll be back to post the end result.
Thanks everyone.
Taking everyone's advice I disconnected the motor and cut into my wires. Using a battery charger at 10 amps I simply applied power; remarkably nothing happened so I was thinking I had a bad motor. I decided at that point to check one last thing - the wiring harness that plugged into the motor harness (its different than the stock harness from the coach so you have to splice them together). Since the motor came with numerous other adaptors I used a different one - voila!, the motor started spinning. First problem solved. Next I went ahead and spliced the coach wires with the second harness together and hit the switch. The motor barely moved (but it did move). Now I'm thinking "okay, I've got voltage on my meter but what is the amperage"; long story short the switch is not pushing enough consistent amperage to make the motor activate (0.1 and 0.2 amps only when 10 should be flowing).
Here's where I am at now:
1. the realization that you probably didn't need a new motor but bought one anyway - $40
2. the cost of a new switch - $5 on Amazon
3. the realization that voltage does not equate to amperage - priceless
For those that maybe someday will need this information, here's what I have purchased (thus far):
-Dorman 742-264 Window Lift Motor from Autozone (this fit my Muncy 18-05 regulator gear but yours will most likely be different)
-Power Window Rocker Switch 5 Wire Reverse Polarity Control from Amazon (size does matter with this one - check it closely)
The switch should be here next week so I'll be back to post the end result.
Thanks everyone.
