I have another dilemma based on my Itasca Suncruiser Operators Manual. It states: "When coupling the vehicle tow bar to the Factory Receiver Hitch using a 'drop receiver' or a conventional 'ball mount' do not exceed a 4" drop...It seems that with this restriction it would be impossible to tow almost any vehicle especially my 1965 VW Beetle. The height of the receiver opening on the coach is 27" off the ground. THat means that any tow bar would have to be 23" off the ground to be level. The front of my beetle is only 10" off the ground leaving me 13" to make up.Any comments?

After you decide what attachment kit you're going to use, measure from that point. Based on make/model your "base plate" will probably be higher than the 10" you're looking at.

Those instructions are a bit confusing, but they mean to say; The objective is to use a drop hitch receiver (they come in 2" to 10" drop versions) having sufficient drop to keep the tow bar, from hitch to toad base plate, within 4" of level.In other words, the toad connection can be 0" to 4" below the coach connection point, but should NEVER be above.My drop receiver is 8" below the actual coach hitch receiver, to make the tow bar within 2" of level.Hope this helps.

The 65 Beetle doesn't use a base plate but instead uses two U-clamps that attach to the tortion bar at the axle. The only Beetle tow bars I have found are sold thru VW parts sellers and only one has a 3" rise which still leaves a 10" gap. I have found a hitch with a 10" drop but that still leaves 4" out of level.

On my previous coach, I had a hitch shop add a second receiver. They plated one to the other. It gives you a 3" drop without extending the hitch further back. It won't solve your issue, but it gets you 3" closer and reduces the drop hitch length.

The manual is pointing that any drop hitch is going to make additional bending forces, that at some point will become danger. Forcing 13" difference you should think about manufacturing some frame on the hitch, or on the toad that will be able to take bending forces. When I see lifted pickup towing with foot long drop, I always keep big distance.

Drop hitch | Good Sam Community

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Nov 09, 2015
The manual is pointing that any drop hitch is going to make additional bending forces, that at some point will become danger.
Forcing 13" difference you should think about manufacturing some frame on the hitch, or on the toad that will be able to take bending forces.
When I see lifted pickup towing with foot long drop, I always keep big distance.
DSDP_Don
Explorer
Nov 09, 2015
On my previous coach, I had a hitch shop add a second receiver. They plated one to the other. It gives you a 3" drop without extending the hitch further back. It won't solve your issue, but it gets you 3" closer and reduces the drop hitch length.
Seniorfirsttime
Explorer
Nov 09, 2015
The 65 Beetle doesn't use a base plate but instead uses two U-clamps that attach to the tortion bar at the axle. The only Beetle tow bars I have found are sold thru VW parts sellers and only one has a 3" rise which still leaves a 10" gap. I have found a hitch with a 10" drop but that still leaves 4" out of level.
OnaQuest
Explorer
Nov 09, 2015
Those instructions are a bit confusing, but they mean to say; The objective is to use a drop hitch receiver (they come in 2" to 10" drop versions) having sufficient drop to keep the tow bar, from hitch to toad base plate, within 4" of level.

In other words, the toad connection can be 0" to 4" below the coach connection point, but should NEVER be above.

My drop receiver is 8" below the actual coach hitch receiver, to make the tow bar within 2" of level.

Hope this helps.
mccsix
Explorer
Nov 09, 2015
After you decide what attachment kit you're going to use, measure from that point. Based on make/model your "base plate" will probably be higher than the 10" you're looking at.

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