E450 won't start
I went to the place where I store my RV, a 2008 Sunseeker with E450 gas engine, yesterday. I had been there a couple of weeks ago and tried to start it, and eventhough the dash lights etc came on it w...
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The "Solenoid" mounted inside your fender well, close to the battery, should look about like this photo
Your Positive Battery Cable attaches to one of the large terminals and the heavy gauge cable to the Starter attaches to the other.
The Small terminal is where the START circuit from your Ignition Switch connects.
If Battery and Connections are GOOD and that fender mounted Solenoid is GOOD but something is wrong in the Key Switch or Neutral Safety switch, jumping the Battery Positive to the Small terminal should cause it to crank. NO NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH, SO BE SURE IT'S IN PARK AND BRAKES SET!!!
If all else is GOOD but that Solenoid is BAD, jumping across the two LARGE terminals with something that can carry a lot of current (like a Jumper Cable or the jaws of Pliers) should cause it to Crank (AGAIN, NO SAFETY SWITCHES).
I don't know of a home (maybe even a shop) tester that can tell much about the condition of an Alternator that isn't being spun and isn't wired up.
These V10 Starters last a LONG time. There was a case not long ago (and I called Bryan about it since he's run a V10 so long) where the coach wouldn't start. Turned out the real problem was a discharged battery. But in the process of trying to crank with a low battery, the starter got damaged. Low Voltage means more Heat, more Damage. So Please, be SURE you have a good cranking battery, well charged, with good connections. Have somebody hold a voltmeter on the battery terminals. Before you crank, it should be 12 or more. Cranking could bring it down to about 10. If it doesn't start, and voltage gets down into single digits, I believe your starter is at risk. Use a Jump Pack or Booster Cables or come back with another battery. You don't want to fry a starter that was otherwise good, trying to use a battery that was weak anyway.
Your Positive Battery Cable attaches to one of the large terminals and the heavy gauge cable to the Starter attaches to the other.
The Small terminal is where the START circuit from your Ignition Switch connects.
If Battery and Connections are GOOD and that fender mounted Solenoid is GOOD but something is wrong in the Key Switch or Neutral Safety switch, jumping the Battery Positive to the Small terminal should cause it to crank. NO NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH, SO BE SURE IT'S IN PARK AND BRAKES SET!!!
If all else is GOOD but that Solenoid is BAD, jumping across the two LARGE terminals with something that can carry a lot of current (like a Jumper Cable or the jaws of Pliers) should cause it to Crank (AGAIN, NO SAFETY SWITCHES).
I don't know of a home (maybe even a shop) tester that can tell much about the condition of an Alternator that isn't being spun and isn't wired up.
These V10 Starters last a LONG time. There was a case not long ago (and I called Bryan about it since he's run a V10 so long) where the coach wouldn't start. Turned out the real problem was a discharged battery. But in the process of trying to crank with a low battery, the starter got damaged. Low Voltage means more Heat, more Damage. So Please, be SURE you have a good cranking battery, well charged, with good connections. Have somebody hold a voltmeter on the battery terminals. Before you crank, it should be 12 or more. Cranking could bring it down to about 10. If it doesn't start, and voltage gets down into single digits, I believe your starter is at risk. Use a Jump Pack or Booster Cables or come back with another battery. You don't want to fry a starter that was otherwise good, trying to use a battery that was weak anyway.
