Electric Pigtails

Yankee Clipper wrote:
Okay, this can get confusing, but here's my solution: I have a native 30-amp coach. The generator puts out 54 amps, so I can run both roof A/C units on the genset. On shore power, the cord only allows 30 amps, so I split the system using a power management adapter kit to allow the use of an additional 20-amp cord to run the single air circuit (on my rig, the forward A/C). To do this method efficiently, I bought a 50-amp to 2 30-amp adapter, run the coach off one side via a surge protector and the forward A/C circuit off the other leg on a 20-amp cord. It's a damage-control method of getting 50 amps out of a part pedestal into a native 30-amp coach. On hot days, it's a Godsend. HTH

Here is what I did for the Hurricane I had. Worked great!

Go forth, then, and have a great time.

Thank you everyone for all the information and education. I learned a lot from you and now have the confidence to go forth down the road.
This forum really is great to have.
Thanks much.

Okay, this can get confusing, but here's my solution: I have a native 30-amp coach. The generator puts out 54 amps, so I can run both roof A/C units on the genset. On shore power, the cord only allows 30 amps, so I split the system using a power management adapter kit to allow the use of an additional 20-amp cord to run the single air circuit (on my rig, the forward A/C). To do this method efficiently, I bought a 50-amp to 2 30-amp adapter, run the coach off one side via a surge protector and the forward A/C circuit off the other leg on a 20-amp cord. It's a damage-control method of getting 50 amps out of a part pedestal into a native 30-amp coach. On hot days, it's a Godsend. HTH

Generally dogbones and extension cords are pretty safe and a std 30amp cord with a 15a to 30a dogbone will marginally carry the load from an AC.

That said, if ANY plug/socket combination does not fit snuggly together, almost to the point of needing a little lubrication to fit together, you stand a chance of the connection heating up.

Pay attention to your equipment, plug blades and grounds should be clean and bright and the socket's contacts should also be clean, bright and fit the blades tightly.

It is not unusual for the pedestals to have sockets that are loose and burned from plugging in cords with a load on them. Make sure the breaker or switch in the pedestal is OFF before plugging in your cord.

If the pedestal socket is very loose you stand the chance of something overheating.

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Sam Spade wrote:

Bill.Satellite wrote:

If you want to plug your 30 amp coach into a lesser circuit like a home 15 amp plug you use the same type adapter but in this case the home circuit breaker will limit the draw and the home breaker will trip if you try to exceed the limit of the plug.

While this is technically true it is NOT a good thing to do.

If the A/C gets real close to a 15 amp draw, cords and connections tend to overheat BEFORE the breaker will trip. The old weathered outlet at the pole will likely be the first thing to go.

I tried that at home and it did not work out. The breaker tripped after a few minutes and the outlet was hot.

I think you should avoid campgrounds that provide only a 15 amp circuit or run your generator when you need A/C.

Lived in our 5th wheel along side of house while it was on market (house empty) using the 15A outlet in garage (nothing else being used in that circuit) for converter AND 15K A/C Unit.

None of the dogleg adapters used (15A/30A and then 30A/50A) got hot and only tripped house 15A CB ONCE when microwave was turned in and A/C was still on. Otherwise one or other and no problems for the 2 months.

I agree. I have lived in my 50 amp coach using a 15 amp circuit many times. It's not a lot of fun as you have to be very careful about what's running but otherwise I have never had an issue with hot wires or outlets. Now, if you were trying to run a long extension cord from a household outlet to the RV and then trying to run max amps I could see where this could be an issue (so don't do that!).

First, the pigtail adapter takes care of everything you need to do, There is nothing for you to worry about with one slight exception I'll cover

Down from 50 amp: Your house likely has 150 or 200 amp service this is the MAXIMUM you can draw before CLICK goes the main breaker.. a standard wall outlet with two parallel slots (both straight) is 15 amps, Try to draw 18 and CLICK goes the breaker.. one with a "T" shaped neutral is 20 amps. try to draw 25 and CLICK goes the breaker (Assuming they did not put a 15 amp breaker on it, I sometimes do use 15/20 amp outlets on 15 amp circuits..

A 120 watt lamp is 1 amp.. This means it will draw one amp. no more.. Even if it is plugged into a 20 amp circuit it only draws one amp.

Your RV is like that lamp, IT can only draw a max of 30 amps. then CLICK the main breaker in the RV trips. So if you plug into a 50 amp outlet using a proper adapter.. Well, you only get 30 amps.

The 50 amp outlet has 4 wires, the 30 only 3, so what do they do with the 4th wire? NOTHING, it's not connected.. It is ignored inside the adapter.

Now that we have coverd 50 amps let's tackle 15/20 amp. And then one final caution.

15/20 amp outlets the wiring is identical to the 30, only the plugs are different and of course the capacity.. So you must be very careful with how much load you put on the circuit.. Try to draw 25 amps and CLICK. nothign as the breaker trips.. No other special concerns other than max current.

NOTE: My converter can draw from 1 to 10 amps depending on battery state of charge and other things.. Bear this in mind.. When I first plug in it is best not to run the A/C for a couple hours on 20 amps.

Finally the caution....

There are some outlets other than the TT-30 which your 30 amp trailer plug will fit into nicely.. You often find outlets of this type on a back porch, or in a garage.. They were installed for a Cloths Dryer, or Air Compressor, or other high power 240 volt Device and will let a lot of the magic smoke out of your expensive electronics.. As we all know electronics operate on Magic Smoke, let it out and they no longer function.. In fact they can ignite. (not good).

A Progressive Industries HW-30C or PT-30C will protect you should you accidentally plug into one of these.. I recommend the HW (Hard Wired) as you do not forget those. TRC makes a SURGE GUARD product line, The ones with the LCD display also do the job but I like PI better, lifetime warranty v/s 1 year on the TRC.

They are called DOG BONE ADAPTERS.I would ALWAYS use a Surge Protecter Anywhere you park, even at home.

Sam Spade wrote:

Bill.Satellite wrote:

If you want to plug your 30 amp coach into a lesser circuit like a home 15 amp plug you use the same type adapter but in this case the home circuit breaker will limit the draw and the home breaker will trip if you try to exceed the limit of the plug.

While this is technically true it is NOT a good thing to do.

If the A/C gets real close to a 15 amp draw, cords and connections tend to overheat BEFORE the breaker will trip. The old weathered outlet at the pole will likely be the first thing to go.

I tried that at home and it did not work out. The breaker tripped after a few minutes and the outlet was hot.

I think you should avoid campgrounds that provide only a 15 amp circuit or run your generator when you need A/C.

Lived in our 5th wheel along side of house while it was on market (house empty) using the 15A outlet in garage (nothing else being used in that circuit) for converter AND 15K A/C Unit.

None of the dogleg adapters used (15A/30A and then 30A/50A) got hot and only tripped house 15A CB ONCE when microwave was turned in and A/C was still on. Otherwise one or other and no problems for the 2 months.

Picking a nit.

All responses use the term "adapter" instead of "pigtail". I the electrical world, pigtail usually means a cord with either a male of female connector on one end, but the opposite end is bare. These are useful when making your own adapter.