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mikemc53's avatar
mikemc53
Explorer II
Jun 25, 2016

Electrical questions

I’ll try to get everything in some semblance of order in hopes that it might help sort things out.
Recently purchased a 27.5 ft 1993 Firan Telstar (on Ford E350 chassis) with 56K miles on it that had sat for a few years. Knowing that it has sat I expect to have issues and will be working my way through them but I’d like to start with some electrical things that I have just noticed. Some of these may be normal but I have no frame of reference (first MH) so I am looking for any enlightenment that might be available.

I started my probing with the generator, an Onan Microquiet 4000 with only 93 hours on the meter. The first time I attempted to start it I did not know if I should disconnect the shore power or propane or whatever so I left everything hooked up and hit the start button. As soon as I hit the button my propane detector started beeping so I shut the propane off and proceeded with the genie. It would crank but not start and occasionally it would just click but usually it would crank like crazy but not fire. I shot a little ether into the intake and it would fire but immediately shut down so I figured some kind of fuel issue and moved on (short on time and would get back to it later).

Well later was about two weeks later and this time I get only the rapid click (relay?) when trying to start. It won’t crank just clicks. So now I need to check if I am getting sufficient power to the solenoid but I have a couple of issues here. First I have no multi meter (long story but it is being replaced this week) so I just want to check connections, etc. I realized that I don’t know if the generator receives power to start from the chassis battery (brand new last week) or the coach/house batteries. As I worked through this it seems that it is the house batteries. Now here is how I came to that conclusion but tell me if I missed something. If I switch the battery disconnect to the off position I get nothing at all – no click, nothing. I started the vehicle and tried the generator and still nothing. When I turn the disconnect back on I get the rapid clicking. Now I know that there are two house batteries and though they look real clean they are probably a bit old. They run everything in the MH though if I disconnect from shore power and they seem to perform really well. Here is where I discovered a bit of an electrical oddity. We have a multi speed vent fan in the rear of the coach and since we have had it home we keep it connected to shore power all the time. The fan works on all speeds but is very loud so I figured in time I’d replace it. Today when disconnected from shore power I turned the fan on and it works great at all speeds with no loudness at all – it whispers. Hooked back up to shore power and it gets loud again. Not sure if this is normal but I wouldn’t think so.

OK, so I have the fan issue with the difference between shore power and battery. I have the generator no crank issue and I am unsure about whether or not it is getting sufficient juice to crank it. Also the fact that the propane sniffer beeps any time I hit the generator start button – not sure if that is normal or not. Once I get my multi meter I can check and see about the power but I am not sure exactly what to check and what to check it for. Is there a way to jump the generator from another vehicle or from the chassis battery? If I can start eliminating things one at a time I figure I can get something accomplished. I know that the house batteries are probably not new but they do seem to perform quite well when needed for other things. What is the best way to check the batteries? If they are good and I still get the click only, what is the next check?

Sorry for the windy and rambling post but there are a few issues that seem to be intertwined.
  • pianotuna wrote:
    Hi,

    Not a good idea to start the generator when connected to shore power.

    Given the age of the OP's MH it is likely that the shore power cable needs to be plugged back into the coach in order to provide power when running off of the generator.
  • A few years ago I replaced our last pair of messed up 12V batteries with two 6V. I bought a pair of Duracell 6V AGMs at Sam's Club. So far so good.

    It was the second time replacing our 12Vs because one of the two does more work and fails sooner than the other. Then comes the acid boil-overs. I decided to try a pair of 6Vs in series with hope they will share the load properly and therefore perform better as a pair and live longer too. The same theory with batteries in a flashlight, stacked up inside, all being drained at about the same rate.

    If changing over from 12V to 6V, do your research on the difference in height. They need to fit in the same compartment. I removed the battery tray in our rig to gain the height. The no-maintenance sealed AGMs means no need for a tray anyway.
  • cgmartine wrote:
    Make sure you have a full tank of gas and throw some Sea Foam in there.

    SeaFoam is wonderful stuff. I have a 24hp riding mower that got to where it would not start without starter fluid. It would not run except on choke. It would spit and misfire constantly.

    I googled those symptoms and read it was a clogged carburetor. I added SeaFoam at twice the recommended concentration, and drove it around for 30 minutes, then I let it sit for 2 weeks. When I mowed the yard after 2 weeks, it was running MUCH better. Would start without starter fluid, and would run without staying choked. It would only spit every once in a while.

    I let it sit another 2 weeks, and it now runs like a sewing machine. It runs as well as it did when new. No spitting or misfiring at all.

    SeaFoam is wonderful stuff.
  • The multimeter is pretty much a necessity for RV troubleshooting. I found out by experience it is tricky to use for finding battery state of charge. When the battery is charging its voltage says nothing about the battery; it only gives the charger voltage. When charging is stopped, the battery voltage very gradually goes down from the charging voltage to eventually indicate the state of charge 8 or 10 hours later. 12.6 Volts for full charge, 12.0 for 50%. Note that discharging below 50% damages a standard deep cycle battery, which is why an RV sitting unused for a year is likely to need new batteries.

    I would boost the generator with a car battery using booster cables.

    I finally found a place that sells Sea Foam - six different kinds. What kind of sea foam did you use to revive the carb?
  • Harvey51 wrote:

    I finally found a place that sells Sea Foam - six different kinds. What kind of sea foam did you use to revive the carb?


    The Sea Foam you need is This One
  • IAMICHABOD wrote:
    Harvey51 wrote:

    I finally found a place that sells Sea Foam - six different kinds. What kind of sea foam did you use to revive the carb?


    The Sea Foam you need is This One

    Yep, that's the one.

    After buying 2 small cans, I finally bought a gallon can. I refill the 2 small cans.

    I do have a can of the SeaFoam DeepCreep, but that is not an engine treatment. It is a wonderful penetrating oil. Far better than Liquid Wrench.
  • pianotuna wrote:
    Hi,

    Not a good idea to start the generator when connected to shore power.


    Pretty generalized statement. I'm trying to figure out where this idea comes from.

    Many, certainly not all, but many, especially older and smaller C class MH do not have a transfer switch. The genny has a TT30 receptacle in the shore power cord compartment and it outputs to that. Manual transfer so to speak. You gotta physically plug the shore power cord into the generator outlet. Rather screwup proof.

    Even with a transfer switch (that is working correctly) whats to happen that is not good? Only issue is the A/C, and you need to make sure that it has proper time delays built in, or you have an EMS such as the Progressive Industries HW30C it has a built in time delay to prevent A/C re-start up problems.

    Charles
  • pianotuna wrote:
    Hi,

    Not a good idea to start the generator when connected to shore power.


    Pretty generalized statement. I'm trying to figure out where this idea comes from.

    Many, certainly not all, but many, especially older and smaller C class MH do not have a transfer switch. The genny has a TT30 receptacle in the shore power cord compartment and it outputs to that. Manual transfer so to speak. You gotta physically plug the shore power cord into the generator outlet. Rather screwup proof.

    Even with a transfer switch (that is working correctly) whats to happen that is not good? Only issue is the A/C, and you need to make sure that it has proper time delays built in, or you have an EMS such as the Progressive Industries HW30C it has a built in time delay to prevent A/C re-start up problems.

    Actually being connected to shore power is probably better when you start the genny. You have the converter providing the additional amperage to the batteries during the start.

    Charles
  • OK, I'm back.

    Changed out the batteries, as after sitting with shore power unplugged for 3-4 hours the batteries were down to 10.5 volts. New batteries installed and the gennie cranks! And cranks, and cranks...no fuel to carb. I pulled the gas line to the carb and there is nothing coming through. I don't hear or feel the fuel pump working at all. Fresh oil, all connections seem really good, though I haven't really gotten to the fuel pump itself. Anything I should check before trying to pull the pump? It seems to be in an OK location to get at but I would imagine that the gas lines are probably pretty dried out and hard to remove.

    Thoughts?