Enclosed trailer

No doubt you all are right about the stopping but if you have ever towed a 3 axel trailer loaded right you know that swaying is a non-issue. The DP will sway long before the trailer does. A sudden side wind hits a 72ft wall (DP and trailer)you better be ready. Only remedy I know for that is stay home.

As far as quality, buy brand name. End of 05 when we took delivery of 06 rev, we had no toad. So we bought a 8.6 x 28 v-nose, 7000 lbs axles, seemless exterior, 1/4 plywood lined interior, 5/8 treated plywood floor. 4' ramp for golf cart or getting into front. Local made south georgia, Lark. Paid $8800. Put mec ml 320 in, towed 10,000 miles, tires shot. Screwless exterior started to bow apart. Back to dealer, new tires and tubes of glue for exterior panels. Backed our 03 e350 clubwagon in, bowed rear ramp. Almost went through plywood floor. Ended up putting 2x12s on ramp and floor. point being DO NOT GO CHEAP. I now use for storage. V-nose good.

we always haul in a trailor. 18ft is very easy to pull to save problems find a trailor with a 5ft tounge. easy to back and not tear into the rear of your mh. also if you order new get an extra door on the drivers side so you can enter and exit the jeep and trailor without crawling over fenders.another must is 16in tires and wheels. they last so much longer than 15s. hope this helps you

time_to_go_now wrote:

ferndaleflyer wrote:
I have been towing trailers in, like forever. 40+ years. Stay away from cheap trailers especially with light weight axels. Get one that is lined completely inside, has a 5-6ft tongue, and has lights inside. A door for driver exit only costs about $200 extra and is worth every penny. Pace and Haulmark are top of the line steel trailers....Featherlight or Gold rush for aluminum. Pricey but the best. Your best resale market is the race car crowd and they aren't buying anything less than 24ft as a rule. As for the electric brake thing---I can't imagine having anything else on a small trailer. Not that I recommend it but I have not used the brakes on my trailer in years as my DP stops it just fine. My trailer is 32ft tri axel Pace.....Lots on here don't agree with my trailering practices but I tow on average 12,000mi a year, sometimes more, and have over the years had few incidents to speak of.....but do what YOU feel comfortable with.

I don't agree or disagree with your practices. However, I can't help but think that if your were to use trailer brakes on a 32' trailer, you would stop even faster.

That's safe to say ^^^ Electric brakes can stop a swaying condition instantly if the operator is heads up to apply them.

ferndaleflyer wrote:
I have been towing trailers in, like forever. 40+ years. Stay away from cheap trailers especially with light weight axels. Get one that is lined completely inside, has a 5-6ft tongue, and has lights inside. A door for driver exit only costs about $200 extra and is worth every penny. Pace and Haulmark are top of the line steel trailers....Featherlight or Gold rush for aluminum. Pricey but the best. Your best resale market is the race car crowd and they aren't buying anything less than 24ft as a rule. As for the electric brake thing---I can't imagine having anything else on a small trailer. Not that I recommend it but I have not used the brakes on my trailer in years as my DP stops it just fine. My trailer is 32ft tri axel Pace.....Lots on here don't agree with my trailering practices but I tow on average 12,000mi a year, sometimes more, and have over the years had few incidents to speak of.....but do what YOU feel comfortable with.

I don't agree or disagree with your practices. However, I can't help but think that if your were to use trailer brakes on a 32' trailer, you would stop even faster.

I have been towing trailers in, like forever. 40+ years. Stay away from cheap trailers especially with light weight axels. Get one that is lined completely inside, has a 5-6ft tongue, and has lights inside. A door for driver exit only costs about $200 extra and is worth every penny. Pace and Haulmark are top of the line steel trailers....Featherlight or Gold rush for aluminum. Pricey but the best. Your best resale market is the race car crowd and they aren't buying anything less than 24ft as a rule. As for the electric brake thing---I can't imagine having anything else on a small trailer. Not that I recommend it but I have not used the brakes on my trailer in years as my DP stops it just fine. My trailer is 32ft tri axel Pace.....Lots on here don't agree with my trailering practices but I tow on average 12,000mi a year, sometimes more, and have over the years had few incidents to speak of.....but do what YOU feel comfortable with.

I would recommend 20' for resale purposes. Jeeps are relatively short, so if you are worried about resale, get at least 20'. 20' will sell a lot easier than 18', IMO. My car is 17' long. Of coarse, it is your choice.

I bought my 20-footer from trailersplus.com.

We have a Pace American Shadow GT. Nice trailer but not a great trailer.
Get at least a 5' long tongue so not to pinch the trailer in tight maneuvers.
Had a long boat trailer with surge brakes. they can have their share of problems also.
I suggest electric brakes

ScottG wrote:


Why does U-Haul use them? Well for one they don't get used a whole lot in the mountains. They also don't care a whole lot if they get over heated and don't work very well. But mostly they use them because it required nothing special from the tow vehicle.

Isn't that a big advantage?

ScottG wrote:
someone who has pulled a heavy boat with them, I can tell you that very careful modulation of the brakes is required and even then, you sometimes have to hit the gas for a second to get them to release. (brand new trailer btw)
And if you use an exhaust brake then they will be actuated the entire time your descending a hill.

That is when you need them, isn't it? When / If they over heat, pull out and allow them to cool. I pulled the jeep on a U-Hual with surge brakes, from Oakland Ca. to Oak Harbor Wa. up the east side Via 97, and Stevens pass, not a problem. Why should a box trailer be any different?

Tom/Barb wrote:

ScottG wrote:

Surge brakes can have problems when descending long hills.

Why? U-haul has no problems with the surge brakes, Why would I be different?

I would go with the electrics myself but if you really don't like them then maybe you could get an electric over hyd. disc system.

I'd go with a air brake system If I could get a trailer under a bilzillion feet long :)

I've had enough brake controller failures over the years that cause enough tire flat spots that I could have bough several surge / disk brakes kits. a complete 4 wheel surge brake kit is only $900.00 and the disk set up is much better than shoes .

The only grade that has given me any heating to worry about is the grade off Carcross Yt. to Skagway Ak. (20 some miles of 6%)

Why does U-Haul use them? Well for one they don't get used a whole lot in the mountains. They also don't care a whole lot if they get over heated and don't work very well. But mostly they use them because it required nothing special from the tow vehicle.
As someone who has pulled a heavy boat with them, I can tell you that very careful modulation of the brakes is required and even then, you sometimes have to hit the gas for a second to get them to release. (brand new trailer btw)
And if you use an exhaust brake then they will be actuated the entire time your descending a hill.