Engine Coolant

Bill,

I agree and also use the full strength, adding 1/2 the total system capacity and then top off with distilled water. Don't really care how much distilled water was in the final rinse and how much I had to add.

Hear is my way of getting the proper 50-50 mixture. After you have drained and flushed your system do a final flush with distilled water. Drain your system.
Find out how much your system will hold. Fill to 50% with undiluted coolant. Now fill the rest with distilled water. you will have a 50-50 mix. You can now use 50-50 for topping off.
Personally I would call your engine manufacturer to find out what the current recommended coolant is, have your serial number handy as that is the first thing they will ask for.
Bill

So how do you drain all the old coolant? I am sure that by disconnecting the bottom hose to the radiator will drain the radiator, but how about the block?

Thanks every one

The Final Charge OAT coolant is easy to obtain in the 50/50 mix. (Walmart PepBoys etc).
Detroit Diesel Power Cool plus- (part # 23519397)Extended Life OAT coolant --is available in full strength at local Freightliner (Empire Trucking) and Detroit diesel shops. It is made by Peak and is the same formula as Final Charge OAT.

10forty2 wrote:
Just curious...wouldn't that information by in the Owner's Manual?

Yes, your engine owners manual will have the mil-specs the coolant must meet. But lots of choices that meet them, both conventional "low silicate for diesel with added SCA" and the new generation OAT-based coolants.

And, yes, your chassis manual/chassis maker by VIN should be able to tell you what you have in there from the factory. But if over 3-4 years old, it really doesn't matter what was put in at the factory-- it is time to change. And, the clock starts when the chassis rolls down the assembly line, not when the coach was built or sold.

Just curious...wouldn't that information by in the Owner's Manual?

Whatever Final Charge you use, it should meet Cummins 14603 requirements. I use Peak Final Charge Global Extended Life. Zerox Extreme Extended Life also works.

Yes, Final Charge is a good choice.

BUT, with pre-dilute, it is very difficult to achieve a 50/50 mixture because of all the stored water after the final rinse in the 50'+ of hose to the dash heater core, the heater core itself and motor-aid water heater if equipped.

koda55 wrote:
I use final charge that I get at Walmart. This is for heavy duty engines. We have the Cummins 400 isl engine.

X2. Same Cummins 400 ISL. Is Final Charge a good choice?