Equalizer leveling systems circa 2003

OK Guys, I know it has been a while - but I have been kind of busy. This was RV repair week. and I did replace my driver's side rear Equalizer leveling foot. Took less than an hour. I left the jacks retracted and put the allen wrench socket into the old bolt. Gave it a couple of tugs (not too hard as I didn't want to damage the ram) and the bolt came loose. With the bolt still in place but loosened, I then ran that jack down onto two 4x4's stacked on either side of the old jack foot (gave me about 7.5" of work space under the jack foot). When the foot was just making contact with the 4x4's I totally removed the bolt and ran the ram up slightly. Took out the old foot, replaced it with the new foot, and brought the ram down centered on the new foot until there was light pressure on the 4x4's. Gooped up the new bolt with blue locktite and screwed it into the ram through the foot. Tightened up the bolt (nice and snug but not over tight) and ran the jack foot back up into the stowed position. Checked the "tightness" of the new foot as compared to the other three feet and found it to be a little lose. Brought the jack foot back down onto the 4x4's and tightened the bolt up a bit more (I have a tendency of over torqing bolts, so I was taking it easy - did not want to damage the threads in the ram). Ran it back up into the stowed position and it is just as tight as the other three. Observations: The new foot is much lighter than the old foot but appears to be better re-enforced. Equalizer recommends changing the bolt, so for a couple of bucks it was well worth it. An estimate from an RV repair shop for this job was almost $500.00. I was able to accomplish it in less than and hour for around $85.00. Now that I see how easy it is, I will probably change the other three feet. Taking the coach out next week and will see how it works then. I will just keep monitoring the new foot until I am confident that it is sufficiently tight.