My wife and I just bought a 1999 31' Georgetown Class A on the Ford F53 Chassis with the V10 in it. 30,000 miles. My wife and I are still fairly young (early to mid 20's) so we don't have a lot of vacation time yet, so we won't spend a great deal of time traveling in it, we are more of the drive somewhere and park it for a week type of people. So costly handling and driveabilty upgrades will probably not happen. I expect only about 2k miles per year for us. But I do have a few questions about the chassis and drivetrain.Questions:1. I have read about countless problems about these engines blowing out spark plugs. Is there anything I can do to help prevent this? I am pretty sure the original plugs are still in it.2. I believe there was a problem with the original oil dipstick on this chassis, how do I know if I have the updated one or not?3. Do you recommend spending the money and buying a ScanGauge II? Or is usually not necessary? 4. Should I put a transmission tuner on it? It seems that Trans Command is popular is this the "best bang for your buck" unit, is it a must have product?5. What transmission was put on this chassis? 4R100?Any other advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated, we are new at this, and I want to try and make as few "rookie" mistakes as possible.Thanks for your help,Jake

As far as spark plugs, here is a lengthy response from an earlier thread.427435 wrote:Golden_HVAC wrote:The early V10's in motorhomes only had a problem when the person installing the spark plugs overtightened them, and pulled out the threads. Usually not a problem in a RV IF you left the spark plugs alone and never replaced them until the 100,000 mile change interval. That would take years!The spark plug torque is only 37 foot pounds, and torquing the plugs to 50 or 75 foot pounds would remove any threads from the aluminum head, and it would never fit properly, until a new set of threads where put into the engine (this can now be done without removing the heads) and new spark plugs installed. Fred.The part about not messing with the spark plugs in the pre-2003 V10's is a good idea unless you or the mechanic have time and really know what they are doing.The 37 ft-lbs will also likely tear out the aluminum threads. The correct torque is about 14 ft-lbs. You really need to use an IN-lb torque wrench set at 168 IN-lbs. For more info, here's a copy/paste from an old post of mine:The design (4 threads in an aluminum block) is not very robust. When plugs are changed at a dealership, they usually don't get changed correctly. To do it correctly (maybe cautiously is a better term) takes time that a dealership won't invest. I have also previously posted this.If the mechanic just put his wench on the plugs (especially, if the engine was cool), he may have taken some of the original aluminum threads out with the steel threads on the plug------leading to a failure done the road. It is also probably a good idea to also recheck the torque every 20,000 to 30,000 miles.From what I learned on the Ford V10 Forum the proper torque was 168 IN-lbs with high temp never-seize on the threads.Better to remove the plugs, but that has to be done carefully to avoid problems. Here's how I did it.1. Remove the coil-on-plugs and blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air.2. Squirt in WD40 or PB Blaster and LET SET OVERNIGHT (or at least an hour).3. Loosen the plugs just 1/8 to 1/4 turn!!! NO MORE.4. Squirt more WD40/PB Blaster into the well and LET SET OVERNIGHT.5. Remove the plugs and check the threads in the head with a bright pencil light.6. Check/replace the plugs (be sure gap is correct----which I think was around 0.055").7. Place a LITTLE high temp never-seize on the plug threads. Be sure none gets on the spark plug tip!!!8. Hand start the plugs (a spark plug socket with a rubber insert and a 6" extension is a big help). The plugs should screw in easily until their shoulder bottoms in the head.9. Torque to exactly 168 IN-lbs (14 ft-lbs).10 Recheck the plugs after 5,000-10,000 miles (and maybe every 25,000 miles thereafter to be safe).If all else fails (or you want an insurance policy when traveling), buy a Timesert Kit.I did the above at about 40,000 miles before heading to Alaska. The plugs came out without any aluminum on their threads-------possibly due to allowing 2 days to let the PB Blaster to soak in.I rechecked the torque on them after about 20,000 miles and they were all fine. The MH now has about 64,000 miles on it.I also spent about $400 for the Timesert kit (check fleabay) and carry it as an insurance policy. I doubt I'll ever need it, however, but I wanted to be able to deal with the problem if something happened on the Alaska Highway. I love the BB Chevy engines also, but finding parts for the V10 and the Ford Chassis is a lot easier than for the out-of-production BB Chevy engine and chassis today.

Personally I think the blown plugs is more hype then real (I also owed a 99 V10).It is -possible- you actually own a 1998 chassis, due to the lag between when Ford built the chassis and Georgetown built the MH. Digit 17 of the VIN W=98 X=99.Ford started building the V10 in 1997, but didn't start shipping to consumers until 1999.What you have is a 2-valve, un-improved crank V10 (the lowest HP and maybe the most troublesome).One other issues is the engine oil dip-stick, as shipped, might be the wrong one. By this time it might have been fixed (it under reports the oil level by 1/2 quart).I would -certainly- add the Banks Transcommand, it reduces the failure rate of the trany. Now the 4R100 had fewer overheating issues then the E4OD, but what it does have the Transcommand can help with.I doubt a ScanGauge would add much value to you

j.robinson389 wrote:My wife and I just bought a 1999 31' Georgetown Class A on the Ford F53 Chassis with the V10 in it. 30,000 miles. My wife and I are still fairly young (early to mid 20's) so we don't have a lot of vacation time yet, so we won't spend a great deal of time traveling in it, we are more of the drive somewhere and park it for a week type of people. So costly handling and driveabilty upgrades will probably not happen. I expect only about 2k miles per year for us. But I do have a few questions about the chassis and drivetrain.Questions:1. I have read about countless problems about these engines blowing out spark plugs. Is there anything I can do to help prevent this? I am pretty sure the original plugs are still in it.2. I believe there was a problem with the original oil dipstick on this chassis, how do I know if I have the updated one or not?3. Do you recommend spending the money and buying a ScanGauge II? Or is usually not necessary? 4. Should I put a transmission tuner on it? It seems that Trans Command is popular is this the "best bang for your buck" unit, is it a must have product?5. What transmission was put on this chassis? 4R100?Any other advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated, we are new at this, and I want to try and make as few "rookie" mistakes as possible.Thanks for your help,Jake2. Do an oil and filter change using the specified amount of oil from your manual (I think 6 quarts). Then (after starting and then sitting overnight), check the dipstick. If the oil isn't at the full mark, use a file and put a notch were the oil level is. You now have a calibrated dipstick.3. It's more of a toy than needed, but I like mine. It does provide an accurate transmission temp which is good to know if you are climbing grades or pulling a heavy toad.4. No.5. Yes.The biggest thing you could do is change the ATF and engine oil to a good synthetic. There was still a drain in the bottom of the converter on your tranny, so you can do a complete drain (plus disconnect one cooler line and use some low pressure air to blow it out).

n7bsn wrote: Ford started building the V10 in 1997, but didn't start shipping to consumers until 1999. Ford used the V10 in PU's and class c's in 1997 and 1998. The F53 chassis didn't get the V10 until the 1999 chassis model year.

n7bsn wrote:It is -possible- you actually own a 1998 chassis, due to the lag between when Ford built the chassis and Georgetown built the MH. Digit 17 of the VIN W=98 X=99.I will verify it with the VIN when I can, but I'm pretty sure it is a '99 chassis, because I think that that '98 and older had 16" wheels rather than 19.5" correct?

F53 V10 First Timer Questions | Good Sam Community

23 Replies

phnguyk
Explorer
Jun 22, 2013
mena661 wrote:
Lol Trans failure wasn't because you changed the fluid, it was because you didn't.

Bull, trans fluid is made to last, unless used under extreme conditions. You can waste your money every 30,000 if you want. Not saying never, but I feel the "ain't broke, don't fix" applies to trans.
pkunk
Explorer
Jun 21, 2013
Bingo! This is the best most complete, honest answer yet. The Scangage is very informative and also acts as a OBDII reader. It's helpful to use the MPG function to determine the 'sweet spot' in speed VS MPG. Mine happens to be right about 70 MPH-I generally get (on level ground, cruise) .2 mpg better at 70 than 60!
John Wayne wrote:
Your engine ONLY takes 6 qts of oil. The Scan gauge II will give you trans temp. and a lot more info. The Trans command was one of the first things I put on mine, recommend by a Ford tech. If you don't know if the brake fluid has ever been flushed I'd do it now. You want to keep an eye on the trans fluid in the e brake unit at the end of the transmission. It only takes a few oz. but you don't want it to go dry or low.
On mine there was a recall for a bigger vacuum tank (when you pulled a long grade you lost vacuum and the dash air would default to the defrosters till you got to the top of the hill). If you drive in heavy rain you will want the "J" tube for the air filter.
There was a recall for the cruise control disengagement sender. Did yours get it you can check with Ford give them the vin. number. The brake calipers like to be kept lubed I do mine every 2 years, if not they hang up and over heat the brakes.
The "T" handled dip stick was the one that was calibrated wrong and replaced with a round handle. Just change the oil and filter and put in 6 qts. of oil and mark the dip stick.
mena661
Explorer
Jun 21, 2013
Lol Trans failure wasn't because you changed the fluid, it was because you didn't.
jhilley
Explorer
Jun 21, 2013
phnguyk wrote:
I bought a scangauge II at a deep discount, kinda spur of the moment. Absolutely love it, does it really "do" anything? No, not really, but the wealth of info it gives is great. Had a '98 C on f450 v10 put 160,000 miles without a single issue. Now we've got the 362hp v10 with torque shift, different monster all together. Somebody said "you have the worst v10" or something like that, remember before the v10 it was the 460 and there were and are tons on the road today, the v10 was a huge improvement. So enjoy it, and btw most plug blowouts are recently changed or "inspected" plugs, not being properly re installed. I feel the ones who claim otherwise just don't want to admit it was in someway their fault. lol.

One thing I would recommend about the trans, don't do anything unless it's acting up, ie change, flush fluid ect. Just check the level. I had a 99 f250 and at 100,000 miles, figured I'd get a flush. Trans failed about 600 miles later.

Had you changed every 30,000 mi that might not have happened.
427435
Explorer
Jun 21, 2013
While someone not being careful and taking the time to let a penetrant to soak can cause problems when changing a plug, I've also had issues with leaving plugs in for 80,000+ miles (and many years). Galvanic corrosion will freeze the plug to the head (especially with a steel plug in an aluminum head) The threads in the aluminum head will be stripped out when the necessary force is applied to unscrew the plug.

If you do wait, be prepared to find a patient mechanic that will let the penetrant work for a long time and to use a torque wrench when REMOVING the plugs. If the plug doesn't break loose at a reasonable torque, let the penetrant soak longer.
dbates
Explorer
Jun 20, 2013
I have a 1998 Itasca (built 6/98) over a 1999 Ford V-10 chassis (built 4/98 I’ve been told Ford didn’t make any 1998 V-10s), with 300 miles short of 100,000 and the original plugs. My truck mechanic says don’t change the plugs unless the MPG drops significantly & it hasn't. Based on other posts you may never have a plug problem but it could happen.

I did have the water ingestion problem in a heavy storm and, if it hasn’t already been done, would suggest that you do George Beggs’ above “Ford fix”. The price of that fix has gone up a lot over the years but it’s worth the investment.

My kids got me a ScanGauge for Christmas several years ago and although not a necessity I’ve really appreciated the mpg & other info it provides.

I can’t speak to any of your other questions.

Dave
427435
Explorer
Jun 20, 2013
Here's another link for you.

ISO air filter tests

Note the statement a ways in that says:

In 60 minutes the AC Filter accumulated 574gms of dirt and passed only 0.4gms. After only 24 minutes the K&N had accumulated 221gms of dirt but passed 7.0gms. Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt. See the data tables for a complete summary of these comparisons.
rk911
Explorer
Jun 20, 2013
George Beggs wrote:
427435 wrote:
rk911 wrote:

- we were in a driving rainstorm in texas one afternoon...a real toad strangler. as we were climbing a hill a few miles from our campground we suddenly lost 90% of our power...the MH struggled to climb the hill and for a time I wasn't sure we would make it. I had the pedal to the metal as they say but was hard pressed to make more than about 10-12 MPH on level ground. we made an appt. at a local ford truck service shop for the next day and they found that the standard sir filter was literally soaked with rain water. the mechanic was amazed that any combustion was taking place let alone enough to propel the vehicle forward. the solution was to replace the cardboard AF with an K&N air filter. they can be a bit pricey and they do need periodic service but problem solved.

The K&N may have solved your water ingestion (or maybe not-----depends on the next rain condition). However, it has some other problems including possible oil contamination of your MAF sensor and reduced filtering of the air stream (increased engine wear).

Ford's fix was: http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/042422.pdf

Do not use a K&N air filter. Get the new intake tube and save the shield. I put the shield at the top of the new intake tube to shield it from rain coming in through the front grill.

we put the K&N filter in 3-4 years ago and all is well...at least up till now. but I did save the URL fort future reference. appreciate your doing that.
John_Wayne
Explorer II
Jun 20, 2013
Your engine ONLY takes 6 qts of oil. The Scan gauge II will give you trans temp. and a lot more info. The Trans command was one of the first things I put on mine, recommend by a Ford tech. If you don't know if the brake fluid has ever been flushed I'd do it now. You want to keep an eye on the trans fluid in the e brake unit at the end of the transmission. It only takes a few oz. but you don't want it to go dry or low.
On mine there was a recall for a bigger vacuum tank (when you pulled a long grade you lost vacuum and the dash air would default to the defrosters till you got to the top of the hill). If you drive in heavy rain you will want the "J" tube for the air filter.
There was a recall for the cruise control disengagement sender. Did yours get it you can check with Ford give them the vin. number. The brake calipers like to be kept lubed I do mine every 2 years, if not they hang up and over heat the brakes.
The "T" handled dip stick was the one that was calibrated wrong and replaced with a round handle. Just change the oil and filter and put in 6 qts. of oil and mark the dip stick.
George_Beggs
Explorer
Jun 19, 2013
427435 wrote:
rk911 wrote:

- we were in a driving rainstorm in texas one afternoon...a real toad strangler. as we were climbing a hill a few miles from our campground we suddenly lost 90% of our power...the MH struggled to climb the hill and for a time I wasn't sure we would make it. I had the pedal to the metal as they say but was hard pressed to make more than about 10-12 MPH on level ground. we made an appt. at a local ford truck service shop for the next day and they found that the standard sir filter was literally soaked with rain water. the mechanic was amazed that any combustion was taking place let alone enough to propel the vehicle forward. the solution was to replace the cardboard AF with an K&N air filter. they can be a bit pricey and they do need periodic service but problem solved.

The K&N may have solved your water ingestion (or maybe not-----depends on the next rain condition). However, it has some other problems including possible oil contamination of your MAF sensor and reduced filtering of the air stream (increased engine wear).

Ford's fix was: http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/042422.pdf

Do not use a K&N air filter. Get the new intake tube and save the shield. I put the shield at the top of the new intake tube to shield it from rain coming in through the front grill.