Financing vs. buying older model?
In your opinion, is it better to finance a newer motorhome, or to pay cash for an older one (10 - 15 years old.) - or maybe something in between - like a heafty down payment on 6ish year old model. We...
Forum Discussion
PghBob wrote:You bring up a very good point. There are many posts about rigs with contents weighing more than the Ford/Chevy/Sprinter/Promaster can officially handle. Compounding the problem is the limitation of the E-rated tires. They get over-loaded followed by tire blow-outs. Some of the longest motor homes with multiple slide outs can get quite heavy rolling off the factory floor. By the time you add a full tank of fuel, fresh water, occupants and all their stuff, the rig is over-loaded.
Remember in most RVs that there is a maximum amount of weight each unit can carry. For people, food, water, toys, clothes, grills, skis, etc. the max each unit can carry is defined as the Occupant and Cargo Carrying Capacity (OCCC). Find out the OCCC of the RV under consideration. Remember that what you carry in the RV is determined by weight, not space.
Some of the shorter motor homes can have the same challenges because the RV manufacture will build them on the lower rated chassis.
There is a fine line between load-limit and comfort-ride. The ride of a near fully loaded chassis will be much smoother than one with 2000 pounds of surplus margin. That is why RV manufactures use the Ford E350 on the shorter models instead of the E450. If they use an E450 on a 22 footer, the rig would bounce hard down the highway. You'd have to use paper plates and cups because regular dishes and ceramic mugs would be breaking, and the house itself would be coming apart.....cabinets would be falling off the walls.
