First class A, tippy feel when driving
I have had campers for several years. Starting with a bumper pull, and working my way up thru 5th wheels. I now have upgraded to a Class A, and am wondering if there is anything I can do to redu...
Forum Discussion
Damon built on both Workhorse and "Other" chassis. Which did they build yours on?
Why do I ask
Motor homes are "Top heavy" when compared to say a straight truck. or they tend to be.. Now WORKHORSE knew their chassis was likely to end up being a house on wheels.. But other companies build TRUCK Chassis and they end up with a Flat Bed Tow truck bed, or a straight truck or even a van truck but the key word in all these is TRUCK not Motorhome.
So where as Workhorse puts on "Heck" of a Sway bar, no bushings. hard bolted to frame under the beast.. Other companies use lesser sway bars and bushings.
So the things you should do.
First get your 4 corner weights. Go to www.rvsafety.com and follow the links to get weighted or find a segmented scale and park on it (one axle per segment) to get axle weights. Make sure it is a FLAT not a bridge scale cause you pull around and park with JUST ONE SIDE on the scale and the other on hard ground and get the "That end of the axle" weights math (Subtration) gives you the other end.
Inflate tires to pressure specified by tire maker for the load (weight) the wheel is carrying Remember duals are 1 wheel (same pressure) but two tires (Divide weight by 2 if tire maker did nor double itr on the chart)
Next is alignment
Then sway bars if needed.
Consider adding TRAC BARS if not already added
Consider adding Blue Ox Tru-Center or Safe-T-Steer with optional remote device. if not already added.
How much difference?
I drive a workhorse so no sway issues.
Jan 2 2006 Left Detroit for Lot Wage... er. the valley (los Vegas)
It was a RELIEF to park the house and drive the towed.
Returned to MI and added Blue-ox-Tru Center and trac bar (front. though I'm told rear i better) Well Thanksgiving week we headed back to Lost Wages.. Same RV, Same Towed.. Man was that Lumina (the towed) hard to drive.. (I was spoiled by the handling of the modified RV)
Why do I ask
Motor homes are "Top heavy" when compared to say a straight truck. or they tend to be.. Now WORKHORSE knew their chassis was likely to end up being a house on wheels.. But other companies build TRUCK Chassis and they end up with a Flat Bed Tow truck bed, or a straight truck or even a van truck but the key word in all these is TRUCK not Motorhome.
So where as Workhorse puts on "Heck" of a Sway bar, no bushings. hard bolted to frame under the beast.. Other companies use lesser sway bars and bushings.
So the things you should do.
First get your 4 corner weights. Go to www.rvsafety.com and follow the links to get weighted or find a segmented scale and park on it (one axle per segment) to get axle weights. Make sure it is a FLAT not a bridge scale cause you pull around and park with JUST ONE SIDE on the scale and the other on hard ground and get the "That end of the axle" weights math (Subtration) gives you the other end.
Inflate tires to pressure specified by tire maker for the load (weight) the wheel is carrying Remember duals are 1 wheel (same pressure) but two tires (Divide weight by 2 if tire maker did nor double itr on the chart)
Next is alignment
Then sway bars if needed.
Consider adding TRAC BARS if not already added
Consider adding Blue Ox Tru-Center or Safe-T-Steer with optional remote device. if not already added.
How much difference?
I drive a workhorse so no sway issues.
Jan 2 2006 Left Detroit for Lot Wage... er. the valley (los Vegas)
It was a RELIEF to park the house and drive the towed.
Returned to MI and added Blue-ox-Tru Center and trac bar (front. though I'm told rear i better) Well Thanksgiving week we headed back to Lost Wages.. Same RV, Same Towed.. Man was that Lumina (the towed) hard to drive.. (I was spoiled by the handling of the modified RV)
