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DaHose's avatar
DaHose
Explorer
Jul 21, 2014

Ford 460 power increase - california smog legal

Hey, people. As of late, I have been dealing with engine performance issues in my 1983 Jamboree. Good old Mabel is running a California spec. Ford 460. I live in Ca. so I spoke with a local star certified SMOG shop about increasing power output and got some great news that I think is worth sharing.

While California SMOG requirements really limit your ability to increase engine performance, my old girl does NOT have catalytic converters and the air injection is not in the manifolds. The air is injected through the head, directly into the exhaust port. That means two GREAT things!

1.) I can add any kind of headers and be smog legal, so I ordered a set of Hedman headers and will be wrapping them with a blanket. That will reduce radiant heat.

2.) If I really want to improve performance, I can remove the heads and have the exhausts ported. The stock heads gain something like a 20% increase in exhaust flow when you port them.


I can do both of the above, pass smog with no problem and definitely will see gains in engine performance and reductions in heat transfer to the cabin.

A well know upgrade for a 460 is installing a 0 degree cam gear setup. However, I need to find out if modern fuels would allow me to still pass the sniffer test with the 0 gears installed. If I could do all three things above, I might pick up more than 100 HP. It's too bad I can't change the carb. too.

At any rate, I will update this thread as things move forward.

Jose
  • Does the truck have Electronic ignition and fuel injection? If it doesn't try to locate a TBI kit and an electronic ignition. That will give you some better performance than the carb will if you have one and with the headers should work a lot better for what you are trying to do. ALso make sure to install free flow muffler(s) as the case may be.
  • HI,

    My suggestion for the 460" V8 owners is to get a rebuilt distributor, it will produce a LOT more power than the stock one. My F-350 came to life when I installed the distributor, and I could peel rubber - even with the 3,000 pound camper on board!

    Check out this place.


    Clutches Unlimited
    Phone: (714)373-6155
    Address: 15116 Adams Street
    Midway City, CA 92655


    Fred.
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    I went out daily for a week and sprayed the driver side manifold bolts, finally went after them with a ratchet and all eight came out. When I looked at the bolts, none was wet down into the threads. On the passenger side, some of the bolt heads had wasted away to where the 9/16" socket wouldn't bite. I found I could get an extension bar between the fender liner and the frame with a socket on it. I think I used 13mm, and hammered it in place from the wheel well. Every bolt came right out. Dry! No spraying at all. The hammering did much more than the PB-Blaster and another spray called Yield.
    You should be good with those long tube headers. I met an OP from the RV forums named Butch, on some forums Alaskan. He said headers really help the 460. Knew Gale Banks personally and said the equipment was really good but less expensive headers got the job done just as well. Always spelled Banks as Bank$. Butch died, probably 10 years ago. Rest well, Brother.
  • Banks is great gear, but really expensive and they don't make a system for an 83.

    Maybe the system from an 87 would work? Although the ones I have seen are 8-2-1 and my RV has a dual 4-1 system with an H crossover pipe.

    I poked around j-d. I was able to find a set of Hedman long tubes for $215. I should have them by Tuesday. Now the big challenge will be removing the old manifolds with the rusted on bolts. I already replaced the passenger side bolts and ended up with one sheared flush to the block. I used a gasket and high temp. RTV to seal it, but I know it's just gonna blow out eventually.

    Since the shop would charge me $600+ (barring a sheared bolt) to pull the manifolds and since I can use headers, I am just going to grind off the remaining bolt heads from the driver's side (I already took out three)and cut up the manifold if need be. That will leave me with the bolt bodies sticking out of the block. Then I will be able to get some heat and PB blaster directly to the threads and (hopefully) get the remaining bolts removed cleanly.

    I will take another look at that bolt stuck in the passenger side. I might take it in and have the shop try to get it out. If they say the head has to come off, then I might just have them pull both heads and go for the exhaust side porting.

    Jose
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Jose,

    FL no longer has an emissions test. When we had an '83 E350/460, I replaced the timing set at around 95,000-miles thinking I'd find it shot. It wasn't but I installed a new set with all-metal sprockets including 0* crank sprocket. At a later time, I installed a FlowMaster "cat-back" exhaust. The part number did not go as early as 1983, probably because 1983 did not have a catalytic converter. A little A-Dapting got it installed, and the extra piece of straight 3" pipe that FM provided for longer wheelbases was all I needed to make up for the length of the cat that wasn't there. It was a 3" mandrel-bent aluminized exhaust that exited behind the passenger rear dual tires. Came out the correct length for the widened body and had a 4" polished stainless tip. All I really needed to get was a 2-1/2"by3" adapter to go from stock crossover to FM's 3" pipe.
    I ran an air intake from the radiator support direct to the stock air filter with 4" flexible dryer hose. With those few changes it ran VERY well and power was never an issue. I had tried Headers on a Dodge van we had years before and didn't want to cope with the heat again.
    Speaking of Headers, you don't want "Shorty" headers for high HP at RPM. You want Long Tube for low-end torque. Doug Thorley Tri-Y was a popular header for Class C. I believe Thorley may have become part of Summit Racing.
  • Banks is the only setup I know of that is CARB compliant for the ford van chassis
  • Interesting real world experience, Bear. Less mileage would suck!

    The write ups you see in places like 460ford.com say the changes I mention above should result in increased efficiency of exhaust scavenging. That increased flow is supposed to result in leaner carburetor settings, more complete combustion and better fuel mileage.

    Exactly what upgrades and parts did the $5k include?

    Jose
  • I spent nearly $5000 in trying to upgrade my engine and succeeded in going up a 6% grade at 45MPH instead of 35MPH. I would have rather had the $5000.

    Now I just sit back and enjoy the scenery running by at 45MPH.

    And by the way the gas mileage went from 7MPG down to 6MPG after the upgrades.