Forum Discussion

Explorer

Mar 08, 2014

Generator pull on 95 roadtrek 210 Popular

I took possession of my 1995 Road Trek 210 Popular this past June. It needs quarter panel rust repair on both sides, which is really no problem for me, however the welding work that needs to be done will require the removal of all the back end wood framing and interior wall panels, etc to avoid "up in smoke" syndrome.
I'll also remove the generator as there will be several inches of flooring going back in underneath the whole outboard edge of the generator enclosure along it's entire length where it meets the outer steel skin.... or did.
Why do people allow their expensive wonders to deteriorate this way?
For those who do not know, the 210 of those days was not a wide body, but was artificially extended in the construction process. Road Trek removed the roof in favor of their fibreglass top and then cut the entire back of the vehicle off adding in a trunk below the floor, frame extensions and then a section of exterior steel skin and welded that bit (about 24 inches) to the front and back of the gap created by the extension thereby extending the body for the "Ultimate" Road Trek. After bodywork and some restructuring inside, the work was well nigh impossible to detect. The rear side windows are placed into this patch area and the best way to see evidence of the work is in the drip rail or "rain gutter" around the top of the sidewalls.
I'm a fair mechanic and a top carpenter and wood worker, but the generator pull and related electrical issues are .... worrisome.
Any step by step will be welcome. Pictures? LOL
Also, I am considering dropping the floor there and going back with a deeper, larger enclosure to house 4 or maybe 6 batteries to become part of a storage setup for several top mounted solar panels.... plenty of room for 4 panels of 2' x 4'(or a small helicopter!).
I would like to have sufficient power to run a small efficient A/C unit all night if needed without the generator running/vibrating under the bed.
I plan to get the project underway as soon as winter decides to finish chewing on Missouri!
Thanks in advance for any help or advice!

Class B

22 Replies

booster
Explorer
Mar 08, 2014
I also think the extension is OEM GM, most of the extended vans were that way then and the Dodges were right to the end.

For the body panels you may want to consider using the 3M body panel mounting adhesive. From everything I have seen, it is as strong as welding, no distortion, and it seals the seam to stop future rust. It would save a lot of tear out to prevent fire.
Handbasket
Explorer
Mar 08, 2014
You've probably got an Onan 2800? Mounted above the floor in the 1st gen 210's, rather than underhung like a 190 IIRC?

Here's a pic of the Onan 2800 in an '08 Tiger a'building, before the coach is married:

This should be like yours. I don't think they've changed it. The connections are on the left side to the back as you look at the access door. In order from left to right in the pic, fuel line, 12V for starter, remote start switch wiring harness, and 120V output lines. You'll probably have to unbolt it, slide it part way out, and reach in over the top to get to the connections. Be sure the battery is disconnected.

The box is probably held down by 4 bolts thru the floor into weld nuts inside the bottom of the box. To get mine out of the Tiger, I had to remove the trim strip around the door to get to the door frame screws, and remove the entire door & frame. Not sure how RT did it on the 210. Easiest to build a platform that can sit right outside the compartment to move it onto. IIRC, it weighs about 125 lbs. One man can move it; I used ramps to slide mine down out of the Tiger.

I'd suggest getting the installation manual from Onan. It'll tell you how much clearance is required for safe cooling. Add some sound deadening if possible (1" rigid fiberglass insulation can be sourced from heating supply places). I cut .2" sheet rubber 'washers' for mine to sit on, and used blue Loctite on the bolts so they didn't have to be but just snug; this'll cut some vibration. Don't block the cooling air entrance or exit (around the exhaust pipe).

You probably have room to add the Onan resonator in the tailpipe. Make sure the outer end of the tailpipe isn't rigidly restrained. It needs to be able to shake a bit to allow the Onan vibration isolation to work.

Good luck with it! BTW, I think the extra length is OEM GM, not added by RT. I've seen maybe two older G-30's as plain vans that I think were that long.

Jim, "Old age comes at a bad time, but it beats the alternatives."