getting 1988 bounder 31k up and running

time2roll wrote:
Check the oil, water and chassis battery are full and just fire it up.

X2!



Chum lee

Check the oil, water and chassis battery are full and just fire it up.

fulltimin wrote:
I have an 83 chevy chassis, and the bottom of the gas tank has 2 plugs, one at each end, at a corner, that can be removed, to drain the tank.

They appear to use an allen wrench to remove them. Have a look underneath, and seal the plugs when re-installing them.

Buy a cheap 12volt generic fuel pump and just pump it out into containers. use a long enough hose to reach the bottom of the fuel tank. You can usually get it down to the last 1/2 gallon

If you're going yo try to prelube by spinning the oil pump with a drill, drain the old oil first and replace with new. There will be a lot of contamination in the old oil and no point in spreading it through the whole motor. When looking down on the motor, you turn the oil pump clockwise. Pay attention to where the rotor is pointing before you pull the distributor. You will need to put witness marks on the engine to get the proper positioning of the distributor, and you will need to mark the distributor where the rotor is pointing to get the distributor gear and cam gear properly engaged.

Those 454 truck motors are pretty rugged and can stand up to some abuse. They are not hard to rebuild if you are fairly mechanically inclined and can find a shop to do any block machining that might be needed. Lots of aftermarket parts for those motors. Even if you choose to just buy a rebuilt motor to drop in, that block will be salable to some hot rodder unless you crack it.

An old method we used to use on an engine, was to remove the distributor, and attach a long shaft with a flat ground on the one end, (much like a flat blade screwdriver), to a drill.

The end with the flat ground on it, goes down the distributor hole and engages with the oil pump. Crank away with the drill, and you will have oil everywhere except the cylinder walls. (you can use the method above for them)

After you have oil everywhere, you can put the distributor back in, and crank away, knowing everything is lubed.

You can mark the distributor before pulling, so you can get it back close enough to start the engine, and then set the timing after it is running.

Yes, it's extra work, but does provide an additional level of protection with lubrication.

T18skyguy wrote:

darsben1 wrote:
WD 40 IS NOT A LUBRICANT

Correct. Pull the plugs and give it one good squirt with 10-30 or 30 weight oil. Try to aim it at the cylinder wall, not the top of the piston. Gravity will make it work it's way around and down to the rings. This will keep you from wiping the rings on a dry cylinder. Do everything you can to make sure it will start on the first attempt to crank it. Good gas, clean oil, good battery, new oil filter, check the air filter. Even if you do everything right remember there's old fuel in the lines. If you change the fuel filter that will help it get fresh fuel that much sooner. Once it kicks over keep it going and watch all the gauges for pressure and temperature. No doubt you will probably have to crank it a number of times before the good fuel hits it. It's gonna smoke from the oil so don't be alarmed. You need to change the coolant too. Have another person watch the engine compartment and underneath for leaks. Good luck she should run.

This method is correct. The only thing I would add: once you have added the oil to the cylinder thru the spark plug holes, dry crank the motor with the plugs out and the new oil in place. This just lets the starter turn the motor slowly without compression and the dry cranking will allow the cylinder walls to be completely coated, plus it will allow the oil pump to get oil to the lifters. This process will make sure all parts of the motor are coated with oil before it's started and hit with a lot of RPM's. Oh, and another trick, when you change the oil filter, fill it with new oil as full as possible before attaching to the motor. This will get oil moving thru the passages a lot quicker.
Good luck, and you'll love it when that motor roars back to life.

darsben1 wrote:
WD 40 IS NOT A LUBRICANT

Correct. Pull the plugs and give it one good squirt with 10-30 or 30 weight oil. Try to aim it at the cylinder wall, not the top of the piston. Gravity will make it work it's way around and down to the rings. This will keep you from wiping the rings on a dry cylinder. Do everything you can to make sure it will start on the first attempt to crank it. Good gas, clean oil, good battery, new oil filter, check the air filter. Even if you do everything right remember there's old fuel in the lines. If you change the fuel filter that will help it get fresh fuel that much sooner. Once it kicks over keep it going and watch all the gauges for pressure and temperature. No doubt you will probably have to crank it a number of times before the good fuel hits it. It's gonna smoke from the oil so don't be alarmed. You need to change the coolant too. Have another person watch the engine compartment and underneath for leaks. Good luck she should run.

" I have an 83 chevy chassis, and the bottom of the gas tank has 2 plugs, one at each end, at a corner, that can be removed, to drain the tank"
This helps a ton thanks!!!

STBRetired wrote:

If you want to keep it running well for a long time, you should pull the motor and do a full rebuild on it

I was thinking about just getting it running for a couple years and when/ if the motor goes ill drop it and replace it then. I was looking at rebuilds and there only about 2-5k so if i can get some use out of it while i save to replace it would be best. At this point were only looking at weekend trips down the I5, basically where can we get on a full tank round trip.

WD 40 IS NOT A LUBRICANT

PBBlaaster is better in the cylinders than WD40. If it has been sitting for 10 years there is a good possibility that it will have a seized ring or two. Won't keep it from running, but will eventually damage the cylinder wall and cause it to burn oil.

If you want to keep it running well for a long time, you should pull the motor and do a full rebuild on it, replacing parts as needed. All the bearing surfaces are going to be dry, the lifters are most likely gummed up, there is probably rust on the cylinder walls, might be blocked coolant or oil passages. Same thing with the transmission. Should have the valve body cleaned and will probably need new clutch packs.

Or, you can just fire it up and hope for the best. Might get a few years use out of it before serious problems develop.