Gone Residential

JC2 wrote:

We replaced our Dometic NDR1062 last year with the Haier 10.2cu ft residential as I had lost all confidence in rv fridges. Our rv fridge would not cool even after several mods, switching to the Amish coils, installing extra fans; etc,etc. The straw that broke the camels back was when our Amish replacement coils sprung a leak after just one yr.

On a side note, how did you secure your residential fridge in the compartment and what, if anything, do you use for keeping the doors close when in transit?

We replaced our Norcold fridge with the same model Haier last fall. I used the original Norcold rear bracket to anchor the rear of the new fridge to the floor, securing it to the fridge with self-drilling sheet metal screws. At the top front, I used two small 'L' brackets, attached to the top of the fridge with 3M automotive trim tape and screwed into the wood frame where the trim would cover them.

To keep the doors secured, I used modified double hung window latches from Home Depot as seen in the photos below:

These will work, just paint to match
Door/Drawer Locks

Best thing we ever did when our NEVERCOLD at 11 years of age bit the dust was replaced with a residential fridge. Everything freezes and stays cold so much better and that of itself gives us more confidence in our foods being good. Because we love to boondock with a passion we also installed thanks to help from several Escapee members guidance a fully fledged solar system 1000w and 800ah battery bank.

The C$3800 we saved on the cost of the new replacement useless RV type fridge, we spent C$700 on the fridge/freezer and under C$7000 for the whole solar set up. For sure it'll take a bit to get our money back on what we save on CG fees, but we are avid boondockers anyway and the convenience of being totally cordless is priceless to us.

FWIW, and if it helps someone else avoid what we went through: We initially used Velcro to secure the fridge doors and wedged rolled up netting we had spare to hand left over from covering the back vent to the outside for ventilation, between the upper and lower doors when in transit, until hubby went around a corner a little too sharp on the Peninsula in Washington, and out flew a gallon of milk that split, all over the place (never want that to happen believe me!!!) Took hours of steam cleaning and sucking up carpet over and over at the nearest Walmart as well wiping every nook and cranny thoroughly with hot soapy water to avoid inevitable to come smell in the August heat. Could have cried redoing it over and over to try to get rid of any smell that was waiting to happen!

Went to Rona and Installed two clear plastic straps with heavy duty press studs (one for each door of fridge and freezer) secured to the surround = works a treat now.

On our previous RV, we also wedged our Haier residential replacement with Styrofoam and spray foam insulation to keep it in the compartment and insulate it. We did experience a draft in cold weather coming through the outside vent. At the top there were metal angle pieces that we attached 2-sided sticky tape to the top of the front of the fridge frame and that holds very well. It was almost a perfect fit for our original Norcold, so very little work had to be done to the trim.

We used bungee cords to keep the doors closed when we traveled.

As far as keeping the doors closed some people on here have posted different type of self sticking velcro type straps some childproof stuff etc. Right now I am using painters tape. I just installed this yesterday , haven't even pulled out of the driveway yet. I will keep all posted.

I wedged styrofoam blocks on the sides. On the backside thru the vent I was able to run some screws through the bottom truss that the rollers fit in the base plate into the plywood floor.I then wedged 1/12 foam pipe insulation around the fridge to form a seal to close the opening around refrigerator . I am hoping this blocks the outside air from coming into rv from the outside vent. I want to still use that vent to help provide air circulation to the backside of refrigerator . I am going to install a cabinet grade piece to cover about a 5" gap across the top of the fridge and some kind of trim on the sides. Right now I filled ovhd gap with a piece of egg crate foam. Will see how all this plays out. On the inverter part I do not have one. I have a converter only. I live in south texas I do not see hardly going anywhere without the generator on running AC units. On very few occasions in the fall is it cool enough not to run ac. On keeping the doors closed some folks on here posted different type of velcro self stick straps , some childproof stuff etc. I just did this yesterday haven't even pulled out of the driveway yet. Right now I have painters tape on the doors to keep them closed.

Awesome. We use a residential now in all 3 of our RV's. We keep a full size in the bounder. Let me say it like this, it's nice having frozen ice cream. It's not great for boondocking though and smart to keep large blocks of ice if you are expecting to boondock.

I will say you can run the fridge while driving with a good inverter and powerful enough alternator.

Curious about how you folks secure the residential units for travel.

We have a huge cavity under our the fridge in our 5vr and the cabinet is wide enough for residential unit to fit. I'm seriously thinking to sell my 4 year old rv fridge while it still works fine, replace with a residential and buy a boat load of beer and steak with the profits.

booty51 wrote:
The Norcold982 finally bit the big one. Thanks dougrainer for your help in telling me what was what with that old refrigerator .MR Wizzad posted info about his residential change out that helped. In fact I copied what he did. After checking my options and the way we use the MOHO residential made the most sense. When we travel I usually run generator for AC comfort. I very rarely boondock and I am usually hooked up to pedestal somewhere. So we have replaced it with the same size 7.5cu.ft. residential. Took about 3 hours to get the old one out. I am old and slow but consistent. I used a floor jack and a piece of plywood to lower fridge down out of hole ,put it on a two wheel dolly and hopped it down the stairs out the door The hardest part was getting it to free up and slide out after everything was disconnected, clearances looked good I just couldn't make it slide out till I moved it side to side just a little bit , that did the trick then out it came. The old floor looked real good no water damage all I did to it was coat it with thompsons water seal just in case. Taped up 12 volt wires left them in place and plugged the LPG line turned propane back on and soap tested for leaks(none). Hopped the new fridge up the stares on dolly (it was so much lighter) rolled it in front of hole Wife and I lifted it in place. Leveled it up plugged it in. Temp was down to zero and 40 degrees in about two hours. Thanks to all for posting what you have done with your rv projects it always helps someone down the road.

We replaced our Dometic NDR1062 last year with the Haier 10.2cu ft residential as I had lost all confidence in rv fridges. Our rv fridge would not cool even after several mods, switching to the Amish coils, installing extra fans; etc,etc. The straw that broke the camels back was when our Amish replacement coils sprung a leak after just one yr.

On a side note, how did you secure your residential fridge in the compartment and what, if anything, do you use for keeping the doors close when in transit?