Hard to stay in lane on highway?
We picked up our used 2018 class C last weekend with 12k miles, and on the drive back we noticed it was significantly harder than a car to keep in the lane. I've had experience towing a heavy trailer...
Forum Discussion
Hi nosebreaker,
Your new purchase likely needs some suspension work. But before you start investing bigger money, start with the lower cost ones that are certain.
As others have mentioned, start with the proper tire pressure for the weight of your rig. The 2 front tires will likely require a different tire pressure than the 4 rear tires. Too much air in the front tires will cause constant steering correction. Not enough in them increases the risk of a front tire blowout. Too much air in the rear tires causes a very bumpy ride. Just like the front tires, not enough air pressure increases the risk of a tire blowout. The right tire pressure will not only improve the handling and reduce risk of a blowout , but also yield proper tire wear, maximize braking performance, and provide good fuel economy. And BEWARE, not all tire gauges are the same as I learned HERE. They can vary by an alarming amount.
Also as others mentioned, get a front wheel alignment done with your rig loaded as if ready to leave on a trip including a full tank of gas and fresh water, personal effects, food, cookware, everything in it's place. If you can, add weight representing you and your spouse in the front seats (actually just behind those seats so the vehicle can be driven). This because the load and how it is distributed, affects the wheel alignment.
With our motor home built on a 2007 E350 chassis, we needed a lot of help in getting our rig to handle nicely. We needed the following suspension upgrades in addition to a front wheel alignment and proper tire pressure.
- front & rear heavy duty stabilizer bars
- heavy duty shock absorbers
- rear trac bar
- heavy duty steering stabilizer
Our driving experience changed from exhausting to relaxing. It went from two hands holding tight and correcting all the time, to one hand holding the steering wheel steady with only minor adjustments, and a cup of coffee in my other hand. This even with trucks passing and gusting crosswinds.
People don't realize the varying dynamics of each motor home. Each brand and floor plan will have their own unique driving characteristics. Many rigs have the main frame lengthened which changes the wheel base. Almost every class C motor home has a rear frame extension, rear of the rear axle which lightens the front end creating the floaties. These days most have a heavy slide out or two or even three which further adds variation. Their various heights and shapes influence aerodynamics which affects handling in other unique ways. The worst handling rigs are the shortest ones because the wheel base is short yet the rear over-hang is most often as long as mid-length rigs. That ratio of over-all length to wheel base will be an indicator for what the owner can expect.
That is why it is impossible for the chassis manufacture like Ford to set the alignment. They don't know what the end-product will be.
So the good news is that something can be done to make things right. The bad news is you are not done spending money on your rig. If you have a shop do everything for you, it will cost as much as $4000. If you buy everything yourself and install them yourself, you will cut the cost in half, maybe even more pending the deals you find on the internet.
Your new purchase likely needs some suspension work. But before you start investing bigger money, start with the lower cost ones that are certain.
As others have mentioned, start with the proper tire pressure for the weight of your rig. The 2 front tires will likely require a different tire pressure than the 4 rear tires. Too much air in the front tires will cause constant steering correction. Not enough in them increases the risk of a front tire blowout. Too much air in the rear tires causes a very bumpy ride. Just like the front tires, not enough air pressure increases the risk of a tire blowout. The right tire pressure will not only improve the handling and reduce risk of a blowout , but also yield proper tire wear, maximize braking performance, and provide good fuel economy. And BEWARE, not all tire gauges are the same as I learned HERE. They can vary by an alarming amount.
Also as others mentioned, get a front wheel alignment done with your rig loaded as if ready to leave on a trip including a full tank of gas and fresh water, personal effects, food, cookware, everything in it's place. If you can, add weight representing you and your spouse in the front seats (actually just behind those seats so the vehicle can be driven). This because the load and how it is distributed, affects the wheel alignment.
With our motor home built on a 2007 E350 chassis, we needed a lot of help in getting our rig to handle nicely. We needed the following suspension upgrades in addition to a front wheel alignment and proper tire pressure.
- front & rear heavy duty stabilizer bars
- heavy duty shock absorbers
- rear trac bar
- heavy duty steering stabilizer
Our driving experience changed from exhausting to relaxing. It went from two hands holding tight and correcting all the time, to one hand holding the steering wheel steady with only minor adjustments, and a cup of coffee in my other hand. This even with trucks passing and gusting crosswinds.
People don't realize the varying dynamics of each motor home. Each brand and floor plan will have their own unique driving characteristics. Many rigs have the main frame lengthened which changes the wheel base. Almost every class C motor home has a rear frame extension, rear of the rear axle which lightens the front end creating the floaties. These days most have a heavy slide out or two or even three which further adds variation. Their various heights and shapes influence aerodynamics which affects handling in other unique ways. The worst handling rigs are the shortest ones because the wheel base is short yet the rear over-hang is most often as long as mid-length rigs. That ratio of over-all length to wheel base will be an indicator for what the owner can expect.
That is why it is impossible for the chassis manufacture like Ford to set the alignment. They don't know what the end-product will be.
So the good news is that something can be done to make things right. The bad news is you are not done spending money on your rig. If you have a shop do everything for you, it will cost as much as $4000. If you buy everything yourself and install them yourself, you will cut the cost in half, maybe even more pending the deals you find on the internet.
