Has anyone ever tried a portable A/C in their class C???

If you go down the portable AC unit path, you may want to check out the current issue of Consumer Reports. They have a short 1 page article about them. I just skimmed it. The general upshot was they weren't very effective. They did rate a few units too.

Bumpyroad wrote:
a window unit hanging out the back of the RV worked fine for Jed Clampett so I don't see why it wouldn't be OK.
bumpy

Weeeee Dogie!

Yes it would not fit into today's day & age, but I have seen them on rare occasion on older rigs. I've seen shallow units that don't hang out the back so much, less gaudy looking. I don't know how effective they are, but I would think adequate for a rear bedroom. Of coarse the right (and most expensive) solution is to add a second roof-top a/c unit. But his rig is a 1993, 21 years old.

"Granny, Tell Jethro to get that fancy meat cuttin thing Mr. Drisedale gave us. I think he called it a Sawz-All"

a window unit hanging out the back of the rV worked fine for Jed Clampett so I don't see why it wouldn't be OK.
bumpy

buta4 wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:
When the AC on the boat died, we tried one (still using it actually). Figured $300 for a portable vs $1500 for a marine unit, it was worth an experiment.
- You do need a window to put the hose thru. We used the dremel to shape it to fit a window.
- I would definetly recomend the 2 hose units. It doesn't cool nearly as well as the old marine unit and I believe it is related to exhausing already cooled air which sucks in warm air from outside. Of course the 2 hose units are significantly more expensive.
- Noise: Not significantly different than the roof AC in the trailer.
- It does take up a good deal of space.
- Draining the condensation is not an issue. It drains across the exhaust fan and gets flung out with the exhaust air (we have a heat mode and for some reason that did require draining the reservoir once or twice a day)

The draining the water issue is relevant. However, my model had a water collection tank on the bottom of it. Not familiar with a two-hose system. Either way it has to be accounted for.

It also had air intake from inside the vehicle with no input hose involved. It just took inside air thru a vent near top of the unit, filtered it and cooled it.

We have a single hose system with a collection tank:
- With the same BTU it doesn't cool nearly as well as the old unit and I believe it is because it is exhausting already cooled air out and that means warm outside air is coming in from any crack or crevice it can.
- Even with the single hose setup, there has never been condensation in the tank. I would suggest looking for a model that does this as you would be amazed how much water can get pulled out of the air.

Years ago when seeking a rig that would fit inside our garage, I considered buying a rig too tall, removing the a/c unit to get the clearance needed, and fill the hole with a sly light. Then in the rear wall, install a conventional a/c unit.

Do you have a clean rear wall (or window) that you can install an a/c unit in? Something small and lighter weight of coarse.

I had Soleus portable 14K BTU two hose in my house w/ central air to cool a hot 250 sq. foot bedroom. I eventually replaced it with a Fugitsu split system of 12K BTU.

I would estimate the Soleus was about the functional equivalent of 7,000 BTU. It ran continuously to do the same work as the Fujitsu just idling along with quite a bit of compressor off time. The Soleus successfully discharged condensate into the exhaust hose and I never had to dump the pan running AC alone. I did have to dump condensate pan running heat pump. The two hose Soleus used 6 inch diameter hoses and that alone took up quite a bit of space. Noise along the lines of typical RV AC on medium or high fan.

Personally I'd suggest looking into a way you could adapt a 5K BTU window unit into the back of the RV. It would be much smaller and lighter. It would draw much less power and be more efficient. I'm not sure running the generator near 100% load long term would be good for it. Or somehow as suggested, swap a 15K BTU roof air unit, blow a fan to back, cordon off the front cab area, and put reflectex on the outside of some of the sun facing windows.

It will work the single hose system works, have one at house so speak from experience. The two hose will be more efficient. If you are at a campsite with hookups run a separate cord to the 20 amp plugs on the pedestal for the portable AC.
Have found that putting a blanket to block off the cab area makes a HUGE difference in cooling in extreme heat as well as having the passenger side of the RV facing west and putting out the awning to shade the side of the RV. And small fan in the back to help circulates the air is also helpful.

valhalla360 wrote:
When the AC on the boat died, we tried one (still using it actually). Figured $300 for a portable vs $1500 for a marine unit, it was worth an experiment.
- You do need a window to put the hose thru. We used the dremel to shape it to fit a window.
- I would definetly recomend the 2 hose units. It doesn't cool nearly as well as the old marine unit and I believe it is related to exhausing already cooled air which sucks in warm air from outside. Of course the 2 hose units are significantly more expensive.
- Noise: Not significantly different than the roof AC in the trailer.
- It does take up a good deal of space.
- Draining the condensation is not an issue. It drains across the exhaust fan and gets flung out with the exhaust air (we have a heat mode and for some reason that did require draining the reservoir once or twice a day)

The draining the water issue is relevant. However, my model had a water collection tank on the bottom of it. Not familiar with a two-hose system. Either way it has to be accounted for.

It also had air intake from inside the vehicle with no input hose involved. It just took inside air thru a vent near top of the unit, filtered it and cooled it.

Mich F wrote:
I have no experience with adding a portable A/C to a C, but I was wondering if you have tried using a fan, to circulate air to the back of the motor home ?

I would try this and/or do like the other guy sugested, get the next
size larger roof unit.

Brian

When the AC on the boat died, we tried one (still using it actually). Figured $300 for a portable vs $1500 for a marine unit, it was worth an experiment.
- You do need a window to put the hose thru. We used the dremel to shape it to fit a window.
- I would definetly recomend the 2 hose units. It doesn't cool nearly as well as the old marine unit and I believe it is related to exhausing already cooled air which sucks in warm air from outside. Of course the 2 hose units are significantly more expensive.
- Noise: Not significantly different than the roof AC in the trailer.
- It does take up a good deal of space.
- Draining the condensation is not an issue. It drains across the exhaust fan and gets flung out with the exhaust air (we have a heat mode and for some reason that did require draining the reservoir once or twice a day)