TDInewguy wrote:
Ivylog wrote:
You should've headed south sooner, the cold got you. There is no need to replace the good looking brake shoes but the oil needs to be burned out of them with a torch. If I was doing it myself I would do the one side with the major leak and not worry about the other side as warmer temperatures may solve the problem.
I travel for work and use the rig... So the dallas/Fort Worth run is to demo a large LED video wall at a church...
I'm wondering if I'm better off taking it all apart at home in the barn - or if I should run it into a shop and then risk the brake shoes becoming all greased up.
I did check this evening and the puddle is larger, so it's still leaking. I just found it surprising that both sides decided to let go at the same time!
Any advice for a first timer at replacing the seals?
Well Sir,
Iv'e done the axle seal replacement on our '04 Itasca Horizon 36DG with the C-7 330HP CAT. I don't know just how much you know about that kind of work or, what you're experience level is but, in all reality, it's actually a very simple job. It's just like doing it on a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup only, A LOT BIGGER!
As for the reason they both gave-way at the same time, who the heck knows??? Maybe a quick temp change coupled with age, miles and natural deterioration etc. Probably not a good idea to drive it if, those brake shoes are still salvagable. Yeah, they may have soaked up a bit but, as has been stated, there's a couple of ways of extracting the oil out of them and allowing them to prolong life.
I've done it many, many times with "Brake-Kleen" or, any number of those aerosols that have a high evaporation rate that's designed for this kind of problem. Anyway, again, your own skill level will dictate what your approach is. If you're not sure of the procedure, it's not very hard.
1. Jack up one end of the axle at a time.
2. You can brake loose all the axle bolts and remove the axle with the wheels and tires still on. But, that procedure to me, is a pain in the a$$.
3. I'd rather remove the tires and wheels. That way, all you have to deal with is the bulky drum. Most of the time, once the tires and wheels are off, the brake drum will come right off too, leaving the hub itself to be removed.
4. Remove the outside hub retaining nut.
5. Remove the spacer/tab/lock ring
6. Remove the inner hub nut
7. Remove the Hub.
Now, you've exposed all the innards. You can take the hub to a bench to do the R&R of the seal. But first, if you decide those shoes are salvageable, I'd begin spraying with Brake-Kleen or whatever your choice is so the process begins extracting the diff oil from them.
Go to work on the hub. Go back every once in a while and re-spray the shoes to keep trying to get ALL the oil out of them. Do that procedure 'till you think you've got it all out.
As for the seal replacement. 'This is where it can get tricky. The seal itself is around 5 - 6" in diameter, if I recall. And, trying to re-install the new seal without damaging a $40 seal, is somewhat a pain, unless you have some sort of either home made tool or, something that, when pounded on, will exert equal amount of pressure ALL THE WAY AROUND that seal, like a GIANT seal driver. I made mine. It worked absolutely flawless.
Now, just make sure every thing is clean, and put it all back together, using the correct specs on those hub nuts. Simple. Go to the other side and repeat. Each side might take you about 2-3 hours, depending on your skill level and, having the correct tools, jacks, blocking and all that. Oh, by the way, you'll need a torque wrench to apply the 450 ft. lbs. of torque on all those lug nuts. Good luck.
Scott
