As I have advised others, buy a digital multi-meter from Harbor Freight, etc (around $10). Set the meter on the 20 volt DC scale. Touch the black test lead to the NEGATIVE terminal and the red test lead to the positive terminal of the house battery. You should see 12.6 or 12.7 with engine off and rig not connected to 110 volt AC shore/camp power.. If connected to shore/camp power, or with RV generator running, you should read around 13.6 volts DC. If not connected to shore power, but with engine running, the house battery should read around 14 volts. Remove the caps on house battery and make sure electrolyte fluid covers the plates inside the battery. If needed, add distilled water with a "turkey baster" from the auto supply store, to cover the plates. Remove the battery connector clamps and remove any corrosion with sandpaper or battery connector cleaning tool. Be sure to reconnect any wires with ring terminals when tightening the connector clamps. It is likely you'll need to replace the house battery with a deep cycle RV battery and the starting battery with a good quality battery rated for your vehicle. With your older rig, you may want to replace the converter charger with a new Progressive Dynamics one that will keep your batteries charged but not overcharged and won't boil out the electrolyte. With charging systems working properly and with good fully charged batteries, you should be able to camp for three days without electrical hookups. ( But not if you run the furnace, it's blower uses a lot of electrical power overnight). Your roof air conditioner needs to have shore power or RV generator running to operate.
