Hot Feet in the passenger position

Thanks folks, all good ideas. I will now get on this problem.

NWboondocker wrote:
Here's a cheaper alternative heat shield with good reviews that I plan to try.

I installed the Thermo Tec Cool It in our Lexington class c. It's a 2012 model, and wife was complaining a bit about the heat, not much, and only on really hot days.
When I pulled the dog house to install, I found tha there was a fairly good, one piece, moulded heat shield in place. Just had to remove the rubber gasket and it popped right out. The gasket holds it on and secure.
If you get the Cool It, be aware it has a very strong adhesive, once down, it's down. You cannot re-position it.
Because of all the curves and angles moulded in the dog house, you will not be able to put it in in one piece. I found it was much easier to cut (razor knife) 12" x 12" pieces and section it in.
Also, if you have a heat shield with a layer of insulation like mine does, you do not want to bring the Cool It all the way to the edges of the dog house. Leave a gap. This will let you re-install the original heat shield over the Cool It and make it easy to re-install the rubber gasket. If you bring it all the way to the edge, your effectivily doubling the thickness at the edge, and you'll have a hard time getting the gasket to open enough to get it back on.
The 60" x 36" is more than enough to do the dog house, with enough left over to cover the floor area on either side of the dog house.
Only taken one trip after the install, and wife said it does make a difference.
Also, it did cut back a bit on noise level.
Only tools needed are a good razor knife and a lot of blades--they get a sticky build up on them, and a seam roller. Its about 2-3" wide, used to roll edges of wallpaper, and comes in handy when installing the Cool It to knock down air bubbles and creases.
Grumpy

One item that no one ever checks is the seating of the dog house against the gasket, when the engine is serviced, many of the mechanics just shove the cover and force the latches, leaving a gap.

loosen the latches and make sure that the carpet and floor mats are out of the way, same goes for the carpet-floor covering on the foot wells, then if the heat persist check to see that the catalytic is not over heating due to an improper fuel air mixture.

Once that has been eliminated then go ahead and insulate the dog house and the floor, making sure that the dog house is properly seated, otherwise the purpose of the insulation is defeated.

navegator

Here is an earlier thread that may be of help.

Click Here

One thing I Would Not Do is wrap the manifolds, that heat has to go somewhere,I did that on my old Class A and that broke them,a costly mistake.

Earlier today, I saw this article in passing which had a good guide to wrapping a manifold so the heat stays there, and doesn't wind up in the vehicle.

Another idea is to use HushMat/DynaMat/FatMat (whatever is either the thermal or both thermal/noise... just the noise without thermal will melt) insulation on the floorboards. This is something that I definitely plan to do around the doghouse area.

Here's a cheaper alternative heat shield with good reviews that I plan to try.

Eastwood makes a high temperature header and exhaust pipe coating. Exhaust pipes and manifolds could also be ceramic coated. My E-450 is toasty but do able.

BUY A sprinter no heat problems, ford chevy has had this for a hole lot of years ,and I have plenty of leg room. sold my bornfree just because of the heat problem. and lack of leg room.

You'll Need some type of heat shield or deflector.
If you use a block of wood or foot rest, the heat will still be there.
You want to keep the heat away from the floor.

My wife had the same complaint. Look into adding more insulation on the inside of cover. Sometimes she would put them up on the dash to cool them off, for a few minutes, or remove shoes.