My Atwood GC10A-4E water heater only heats to just slightly warm. It does the same thing on gas or electric. 2005 Fleetwood Southwind 37C with only 20k miles. My first thought was the circuit board, but when I found the cost to be about $200 for the board, I thought I might check and see if anyone has any other advice or recommendations.

Where are you measuring the 'slightly warm' water?At a faucet?OR have you checked the temp of water that will come out of 'pressure/temp relief' valve (in outside compartment.....turn off water supply after heating cycle and relief pressure by opening hot side at faucet.then you can open PRV and see how hot the water is)If you are checking water temp at faucet...Check that the water heater bypass valve is fully closed (ties water heater tank cold & hot lines together when bypassing WH to winterize)Check that hand held shower(s) are valved out at hot & cold water knobs and not just on the shut-off on handleIf all checks correct and water from PRV is just warm and not HOTThen the normal t-stat (under foam cover in outside compartment) is opening too soon or has bad connections. Those t-stats are pre-set to open at 140*F

The FIRST thing you do is pop the pop off valve. IF the water is extremely HOT, then your water heater is functioning. Then you trace and find(usually) the Bypass valve/s are in the wrong position. IF you have hot water at the pop off valve, but warm water at the faucets, the usual culprit is the CENTER valve on the bypass is OPEN. Allowing cold water to mix with the little hot water coming out the hot water exit at the tank. Doug

Did you check your bypass valve to see if it is open? If it is you are mixing cold and hot so you get warm.

if not the bypass it could be either the high limit or temperature "clicks-on"

Lmcneil wrote:My Atwood GC10A-4E water heater only heats to just slightly warm. It does the same thing on gas or electric. 2005 Fleetwood Southwind 37C with only 20k miles. My first thought was the circuit board, but when I found the cost to be about $200 for the board, I thought I might check and see if anyone has any other advice or recommendations.Check to make sure the outside shower handle control is off. If it is open but still shut off it will mix the water with the cold side and dilute the hot water, at least on my trailer it does.

Hot Water Heater Problem | Good Sam Community

nelson
Explorer
Dec 17, 2013
Did you check your bypass valve to see if it is open? If it is you are mixing cold and hot so you get warm.
dougrainer
Nomad
Dec 17, 2013
The FIRST thing you do is pop the pop off valve. IF the water is extremely HOT, then your water heater is functioning. Then you trace and find(usually) the Bypass valve/s are in the wrong position. IF you have hot water at the pop off valve, but warm water at the faucets, the usual culprit is the CENTER valve on the bypass is OPEN. Allowing cold water to mix with the little hot water coming out the hot water exit at the tank. Doug
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 17, 2013
Where are you measuring the 'slightly warm' water?
At a faucet?
OR have you checked the temp of water that will come out of 'pressure/temp relief' valve (in outside compartment.....turn off water supply after heating cycle and relief pressure by opening hot side at faucet.then you can open PRV and see how hot the water is)

If you are checking water temp at faucet...
Check that the water heater bypass valve is fully closed (ties water heater tank cold & hot lines together when bypassing WH to winterize)
Check that hand held shower(s) are valved out at hot & cold water knobs and not just on the shut-off on handle

If all checks correct and water from PRV is just warm and not HOT
Then the normal t-stat (under foam cover in outside compartment) is opening too soon or has bad connections. Those t-stats are pre-set to open at 140*F

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