Forum Discussion
- pnicholsExplorer IIWe use stepped blocks that I made from 2X6's. I put handles on the sides so I can pull them out easily when breaking camp.
Yes ... leveling only front to back is the same as leveling only side to side. Now for the real challenge - having to do both at the same time to get level ... lifting the front or the back along with having to lift one whole side of the RV. I call this "3-point" leveling because lifting three of the four corners of the RV is required.
For whenever we might have to deal with this with our Class C, we carry along 5 step blocks plus some additional short pieces of 2x6's. 5 step blocks are required for the worst case 3-point situation of 4 step blocks (plus a piece of 2X6) for raising the four rear tires and 1 step block (plus a piece of 2X6) for raising one of the front tires. If we can't get level in the above situations, we are at the wrong campsite and have to move on ... which does happen at times.
Often we don't want the RV level. We may want the rear to end up slightly high for better sleeping. - tenbearExplorerAfter you have leveled your MH a few times you will learn how many blocks are required to raise each wheel, say an inch, or whatever your gauge is calibrated in. Just put the required number of blocks in place and drive up on them.
- DrewEExplorer II
coolmom42 wrote:
OK so same as side to side only more work. Blech. LOL.
I'm not sure exactly how it's more work than leveling side to side. It's precisely the same work. Even leveling in both axes simultaneously (as is sometimes needed) is not really much work, just a few more ramps or blocks to fetch and put out.
If you're parking next to DrewE's garage, where I store my RV, it does take a pretty fair collection of ramps or whatever to get completely level. This is particularly true if parking facing the backyard rather than facing the driveway. Most campgrounds are a good bit more even. - coolmom42Explorer IIOK so same as side to side only more work. Blech. LOL.
- navegatorExplorerI have a couple of levelers like the Anderson only made of aluminum, they do not work on sand they just dig in for sand I use 2x6 strepped platforms.
navegator - gotsmartExplorerAlso it is recommended that when putting leveling blocks under dual tires - like the rear tires on a Class C - that you put leveling blocks (wood, plastic, or whatever) under both tires. Both tires should be supported, not just one or the other.
- gkainzExplorerleveling side to side you put blocks under the low wheels. Leveling front to back is exactly the same process - blocks under the low wheels. Easier if the front is low (fewer blocks) but no difference in the process.
- DrewEExplorer IIx3 using ramps/blocks under the wheels. If the site is well out of kilter front to back, it can take a few layers to get the necessary height since the lever arm is a good bit longer vs. side to side.
- rexlionExplorerBlocks. They make plastic blocks that stack on each other, but for years I've used just wood blocks consisting of 2x4 pieces about a foot long or so. Very affordable. However, a year ago I got one of these tapered blocks, and they are convenient! Andersen leveler
- Hemi_RTExplorerSame way with 2X8's
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